Have Restaurants Lost Their Minds? Why I'm Saying No to $25 Glasses of Wine
"Wine isn't just another item on the menu. It's part of the conversation, the celebration, and the memories we make around the table."
This week I read an article in *The Drinks Business * "US restaurants pushing wine markups to six times cost" discussing the rising cost of wine in restaurants. According to the article, some restaurants are marking up wine as much as six times their cost. Six times.
I had to read that twice.
Then I found myself thinking less about the numbers and more about my time in the restaurant business and our wine list.
More Than Chardonnay and Cabernet
Of course, we carried Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc. You have to have a few of those. Guests expect those wines.
But I wanted our wine list to be about discovery.
I wanted people to try Grüner Veltliner instead of another Chardonnay.
Maybe Tannat instead of another Cabernet.
I didn't want the wine whether by glass or bottle to break the bank but it had to be good.
When Did Wine Become a Luxury Item?
The article pointed out something that really struck me.
For decades, there was a fairly common rule of thumb in the restaurant business: the revenue from selling the first glass of wine often covered the wholesale cost of the bottle. The remaining glasses generated profit.
Was every restaurant the same? Of course not.
But today we're seeing something very different.
Some restaurants are charging two, three—even six times their cost.
And honestly?
I'm not paying $25 for a glass of Jordan Chardonnay.
Jordan makes a beautiful Chardonnay.
This isn't about the wine.
It's about value.
I Understand Restaurant Economics
Before anyone says, "You don't understand what restaurants are dealing with," let me stop you.
I do.
I've lived it.
Food costs are higher.
Payroll is higher.
Insurance is higher.
Utilities are higher.
Everything costs more than it did five years ago.
Restaurant margins have always been razor thin.
I understand every one of those challenges because I've signed those checks.
But just because something costs more to operate doesn't mean every increase should be passed along to the guest. (such has merchant fees, but that's a topic for another discussion)
At some point, you have to ask yourself whether you're pricing people out of the experience.
People Aren't Ordering Less Wine Because They Don't Like Wine
They're ordering less because they don't see the value anymore.
Think about dinner for two.
A couple of appetizers.
Two entrées.
Dessert.
Tax.
Tip.
Add a bottle of wine and suddenly you're looking at $250 or $300 for a night out.
Or maybe they skip the bottle and order two glasses.
Now those two glasses cost almost as much as buying the entire bottle at a wine shop.
Consumers aren't stupid.
They're doing the math.
They're deciding to have a glass of wine before they leave home.
Or they're skipping wine altogether.
And restaurants wonder why wine sales are declining.
Hospitality Isn't About the Highest Margin
One of my favorite moments at Trio North Wildwood wasn't when someone ordered the most expensive bottle on the list.
It was when someone trusted me enough to say,
"What do you recommend?"
That's hospitality.
Sharing knowledge.
Creating confidence.
Helping someone discover a new favorite wine.
Building relationships.
That's something no spreadsheet can measure.
Wine Should Invite People In
Wine has always been about sharing.
Sharing a meal.
Sharing stories.
Sharing laughter.
Creating memories around a table.
It should never feel like something you need to finance.
I'd much rather see a restaurant sell three reasonably priced bottles during an evening than one overpriced bottle that leaves guests wondering whether they'll come back.
Because those guests will return.
They'll tell their friends.
They'll trust your recommendations.
They'll order dessert.
Maybe another glass.
That's how you build loyal customers.
Not by making people feel like they've been taken advantage of.
My Hope for Restaurants
I genuinely want restaurants to succeed.
They're part of the fabric of every community.
But I also hope more restaurants remember that wine isn't just another revenue stream.
It's part of the guest experience.
Offer affordable bottles.
Create wine flights.
Introduce guests to grapes beyond the usual suspects.
Teach them something.
Make wine fun.
Make it approachable.
Make it memorable.
Because at the end of the day, people don't remember what percentage markup was on the bottle.
They remember who they shared it with.
And that's what hospitality has always been about.
I'd love to hear from you.
Have restaurant wine and cocktail prices changed the way you dine out? Are you still ordering a bottle with dinner, choosing a glass, or skipping alcohol altogether?
Join the conversation in the comments. I have a feeling I'm not the only one asking this question.
Click here to read the article referenced https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2026/07/us-restaurants-pushing-wine-markups-to-six-times-cost
