One of the things I love most about wine is that every bottle tells a story. Sometimes that story begins in the vineyard. Sometimes it begins during a conversation with a winemaker. And occasionally, it begins by simply standing in the right place.
A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of interviewing Francesca Mecchia of Vigna Petrussa in Italy's Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. We spent our conversation discussing one of the region's most treasured native grapes—Schioppettino. Her passion for this historic variety was contagious, and by the end of our interview, I promised myself I would find a bottle.
As it turns out, I didn't have to look very far.
Last Thursday, I was in New York City and scored reservations at Ci Siamo (thank you very much Zach). While we were waiting to be seated, I found myself standing right next to the wine cellar. I started scanning the bottles, the way you do, and there it was. A bottle of Ronchi Di Cialla Schioppettino 2021, just sitting there like it had been waiting for me.
There wasn't even a decision to make. I hadn't looked at the dinner menu yet. I had no idea what I was ordering. I simply knew that bottle was coming to the table.
Everything Francesca Described Was in the Glass
The first sip immediately reminded me of everything Francesca had explained during our conversation.
Schioppettino is unlike many Italian red wines. Instead of being big, heavy, and tannic, it is elegant and energetic. The wine opens with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, currant, before finishing with the grape's unmistakable signature cracked black pepper spice.
That peppery finish is one of Schioppettino's defining characteristics, and Ronchi di Cialla captured it beautifully.
Despite being a red wine, it felt surprisingly light on its feet, making it an excellent choice even during the warmer months of summer.
Gnocco Fritto and the Caramelized Onion Torta
A Nearly Perfect Food Wine
Our meal turned into an unexpected lesson in just how versatile Schioppettino can be.
It paired beautifully with the warm goat gouda cheese-filled puff pastry appetizer Gnocco Fritto and the Caramelized Onion Torta (that they are known for) we shared. The bright acidity and peppery spice balanced the richness perfectly.
My daughter ordered ravioli, another excellent match, as the wine complemented the pasta without overpowering it.
I ordered a delicate olive oil poached orata, and admittedly, I was a little concerned. Would a red wine work?
While it wasn't the perfect pairing, it was surprisingly enjoyable. Because Schioppettino is lighter-bodied with fresh acidity rather than heavy tannins, it respected the fish more than many red wines would have.
That versatility is one of the grape's greatest strengths.
olive oil poached orata
ravioli
What to Pair with Schioppettino
One reason I enjoyed this wine so much is its flexibility at the table.
Try pairing Schioppettino with:
Charcuterie and aged cheeses
Mushroom dishes
Onion tarts and savory pastries
Ravioli or mushroom-filled pasta
Roast chicken
Herb-crusted pork tenderloin
Duck breast
Grilled sausages
Wood-fired pizza
Worth Seeking Out
Restaurant wine lists often make wines seem expensive, but this bottle was surprisingly reasonable in New York City. It was $68 and personally, that is not bad. I'd expect to find it retailing somewhere around $25–30, making it an excellent value for anyone looking to explore beyond the usual Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.
If you're someone who enjoys discovering lesser-known grapes, Schioppettino deserves a place on your list. It's distinctive without being intimidating, elegant without being overly serious, and offers something just a little different from the wines most of us reach for.
When people talk about aromatic white wines, the conversation often turns to Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, or Gewürztraminer. But there's another grape that deserves a spot in your glass, especially if you enjoy wines bursting with floral aromas and vibrant fruit flavors: Traminette.
As we move into the heart of summer, Traminette is my pick for July. It's aromatic, food-friendly and refreshing and it is 30 years old.
While it may not have the name recognition of Chardonnay or Riesling, once you experience its intoxicating aromas and versatility at the table, you'll wonder why more people aren't talking about it.
A Grape with a Purpose
Unlike many wine grapes that trace their origins back centuries, Traminette is a relatively recent addition to the wine world.
Developed through a breeding program at Cornell University and released in 1996, Traminette was created by crossing Gewürztraminer with the French-American hybrid Joannes Seyve 23.416.
The goal was to create a grape that captured the captivating aromatics of Gewürztraminer while offering better cold hardiness and disease resistance for growers in the eastern United States.
The result was a grape perfectly suited for regions like New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Virginia, and Michigan.
Why Traminette Thrives in New York
New York presents unique challenges for grape growers. Cold winters, humidity, spring frost risks, and varying soil types can make vineyard management difficult.
Fortunately, Traminette was built for exactly those conditions.
The grape is:
Winter hardy
Resistant to many vineyard diseases
Adaptable to various soil types
Capable of producing high-quality fruit in cool climates
Whether grown in the Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley, or Lake Erie regions, Traminette consistently delivers expressive wines that showcase both fruit and floral character.
For New York growers, it's a grape that offers reliability without sacrificing quality.
What Does Traminette Taste Like?
If you've ever enjoyed Gewürztraminer, you'll notice some familiar characteristics.
Traminette is wonderfully aromatic, often filling the glass before you even take a sip.
Common aromas and flavors include:
Rose petals
Jasmine
Honeysuckle
Peach
Apricot
Pineapple
Citrus zest
Baking spice
Orange blossom
On the palate, Traminette often displays bright acidity balanced by ripe fruit flavors. Depending on the producer, styles can range from dry to slightly off-dry.
The combination of floral aromatics and refreshing acidity makes Traminette a fantastic summer wine.
A Food Pairing Superstar
One of the things I love most about Traminette is its versatility at the table. I personally like it with Thai food but will pair with a variety of foods.
Seafood
Grilled shrimp
Crab cakes
Scallops
Spicy Cuisine
Thai curries
Vietnamese dishes
Indian cuisine
Spicy shrimp tacos
Pork & Poultry
Roast pork loin
Apple-glazed pork chops
Roast chicken
Turkey with fruit chutney
Cheese Pairings
Brie
Camembert
Havarti
Goat cheese
Summer Favorites
Peach salads
Fruit and cheese boards
Grilled vegetables
Charcuterie platters
For a summer gathering, try pairing a chilled Traminette with grilled shrimp skewers and a peach salad. The wine's floral notes beautifully complement the sweetness of the fruit while its acidity refreshes the palate.
Beyond New York
Although New York has embraced Traminette, you'll find it growing throughout the eastern and Midwestern United States.
Notable plantings can be found in:
Pennsylvania
Virginia
Ohio
Indiana
Michigan
Missouri
Why You Should Try Traminette
In a world where many wine drinkers reach for the same familiar varieties, Traminette offers something different.
It combines:
The floral elegance of Gewürztraminer
The freshness of cool-climate wines
Outstanding food-pairing versatility
A unique American success story
Most importantly, it's delicious.
Whether you're sitting on the deck, relaxing by the pool, or enjoying dinner with friends, Traminette delivers an aromatic and refreshing experience that feels tailor-made for summer.
Some corks are pulled on an ordinary day. Others mark a moment you'll be talking about for the rest of your life. This week's bottle falls squarely into the second category.
On June 17, 2026, our grandson made his grand entrance into the world — 8 lbs 10 oz, 21.5 inches of pure perfection, and (as two completely unbiased grandparents will tell you) absolutely the most handsome little guy ever to arrive on this planet. Looking just like his dad too! (parents won't let us post pics of their children...sorry)
We popped the cork on the Avinyó Gran Reserva Cava "La Ticota" Selecció 2017, and it did not disappoint.
In the Glass
This Cava is made from 100% Xarel.lo and aged for 72 months.From the moment the cork was eased from the bottle, a steady stream of fine bubbles rose through the glass, creating an elegant, persistent mousse.
The nose opened with fresh Macintosh apple aromas, while the palate delivered crisp orchard fruit flavors layered with complexity gained from extended aging. A subtle note of lime rind emerged on the finish, adding brightness and freshness to a wine that balanced maturity with vibrancy.
The wine felt refined without being overly serious, a perfect combination for a celebration centered around family, joy, and new beginnings.
What Makes a Gran Reserva Cava Special?
While many wine drinkers are familiar with Champagne, fewer understand the quality levels within Cava.
Cava is Spain's traditional-method sparkling wine, produced using the same secondary fermentation in bottle that creates Champagne's signature bubbles. The difference lies in the grapes, terroir, and aging requirements.
A standard Cava must age a minimum of nine months on the lees (spent yeast cells).
A Reserva requires at least 18 months of aging.
A Gran Reserva must spend a minimum of 30 months aging on its lees before release.
The 2017 Avinyó Gran Reserva had ample time to develop these characteristics aging for 72 months, resulting in a wine with elegance, depth, and remarkable balance.
Food Pairing Suggestions
Although we enjoyed this bottle as a celebratory toast, Gran Reserva Cava is exceptionally food-friendly.
Consider pairing it with:
Complex dishes
Roasted meat and chicken
Oysters
Thai dishes
Aged cheeses
Creamy dishes
Final Thoughts
One of the things I love most about wine is its ability to become part of our memories.
Years from now, I may not remember every tasting note from this bottle. But I'll remember sitting with Paul, raising a glass, and celebrating the arrival of our healthy grandson.
At the bottom of the world, where Andean winds scour the land and volcanic soils stretch toward the horizon, a handful of pioneering winemakers are crafting some of the most thrilling bottles in South America.
When most people hear the word Patagonia, they immediately think of the clothing brand or rugged mountains, glaciers, hiking trails, and breathtaking landscapes stretching across the southern reaches of South America. But for wine lovers, Patagonia offers something equally exciting: one of the world’s most fascinating and rapidly emerging wine regions.
Spanning southern Argentina and Chile, Patagonia sits at the edge of the known wine world. Often referred to as “the end of the world,” this remote region produces wines of remarkable freshness, elegance, and character thanks to its unique climate and geography.
If you’re looking to discover wines beyond the familiar bottles of Napa, Bordeaux, or Tuscany, Patagonia deserves a place on your radar. Once you have a taste of the Chardonnay or Pinot Noir you will be shocked, a smile will erupt on your face and you will be seeking out these beautiful wines
What Makes Patagonia So Special?
Patagonia covers a vast area across both Argentina and Chile, extending from the Andes Mountains to the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. The region is known for dramatic scenery that includes towering peaks, crystal-clear lakes, glaciers, windswept plains, and some of the most untouched landscapes on Earth.
For winemakers, these extreme conditions create a unique environment unlike anywhere else.
One of Patagonia’s defining characteristics is its isolation. The vineyards are far removed from major cities and industrial development, allowing producers to focus on sustainable and environmentally conscious farming practices.
Many vineyards are planted in areas that were once considered too cold or too remote for viticulture. Today, those same conditions are producing wines that are gaining international recognition.
The Climate: Cool, Dry, and Windy
Patagonia’s climate is the secret behind its distinctive wines.
The region experiences:
Cool temperatures
Intense sunlight
Very low rainfall
Strong winds
Significant day-to-night temperature shifts
The dry climate helps reduce disease pressure in the vineyard, allowing growers to use fewer chemical treatments. Meanwhile, the cool nights preserve the grapes’ acidity and freshness.
Perhaps the most famous element of Patagonian viticulture is the wind. Constant breezes flowing off the Andes Mountains help keep vineyards healthy while naturally limiting vine vigor. The result is smaller berries with concentrated flavors and excellent balance.
The long growing season allows grapes to ripen slowly, developing complexity without excessive sugar levels. This often leads to wines with vibrant acidity, moderate alcohol, and exceptional food-friendliness.
Patagonia’s Signature Grapes
Pinot Noir
If Patagonia has a calling card, it may be Pinot Noir.
The cool climate and long growing season allow Pinot Noir to develop beautiful aromatics and bright fruit flavors while maintaining freshness.
Expect notes of:
Cherry
Raspberry
Cranberry
Rose petals
Earthy undertones
Many wine lovers compare Patagonia’s Pinot Noir to examples from Oregon’s Willamette Valley or New Zealand’s Central Otago.
Malbec
Argentina is synonymous with Malbec, and Patagonia offers a different expression of the grape than you’ll find in Mendoza.
Patagonian Malbec tends to be:
More elegant
Lower in alcohol
Brighter in acidity
More focused on red fruit than jammy black fruit
These wines often showcase cherry, plum, violet, and mineral notes with silky tannins.
Merlot
Merlot thrives in Patagonia’s cool climate, producing wines with freshness, structure, and refined fruit flavors.
Look for:
Black cherry
Plum
Herbal notes
Soft spice
Chardonnay
Patagonia’s cool temperatures are ideal for Chardonnay.
Styles range from crisp and mineral-driven to richer barrel-aged versions, often featuring:
Green apple
Pear
Citrus
White flowers
Flinty minerality
Sauvignon Blanc
Particularly on the Chilean side of Patagonia, Sauvignon Blanc develops intense aromatics and mouthwatering acidity.
These wines often burst with:
Lime
Grapefruit
Fresh herbs
Tropical fruit
Saline minerality
The Chilean Side of Patagonia
While Argentina receives most of the attention, Chilean Patagonia is becoming one of South America’s most exciting frontier wine regions.
Located farther south than most traditional Chilean vineyards, producers are experimenting with cool-climate varieties that thrive under extreme growing conditions.
The combination of Pacific Ocean influences, glacial water sources, and volcanic soils creates wines with remarkable freshness and precision.
As climate change continues to impact traditional wine regions, many winemakers see southern Chile as an area with tremendous future potential.
Wine Tourism in Patagonia
For adventurous wine lovers, Patagonia offers one of the most unforgettable wine travel experiences on the planet.
Imagine spending your morning tasting Pinot Noir and your afternoon hiking through landscapes that look straight out of a National Geographic documentary.
Visit Patagonia’s Wine Regions
Neuquén Province (Argentina)
Home to some of Patagonia’s most recognized wineries, Neuquén offers modern tasting rooms, vineyard tours, and luxury accommodations.
Río Negro Valley (Argentina)
The oldest wine-growing area in Patagonia, Río Negro is known for historic vineyards and elegant Pinot Noir.
Chilean Patagonia
Wine tourism is still developing, making it ideal for travelers seeking off-the-beaten-path experiences.
Beyond Wine: Why You’ll Fall in Love with Patagonia
Patagonia isn’t just a wine destination.
Visitors can:
Explore glaciers in Los Glaciares National Park
Visit the famous Perito Moreno Glacier
Hike in Torres del Paine National Park
Cruise through fjords and ice fields
Spot penguins, guanacos, condors, and whales
Experience some of the clearest night skies in the world
For travelers who love both wine and nature, few places offer a more complete experience.
Why Patagonia Should Be on Every Wine Lover’s Bucket List
Patagonia represents the spirit of discovery that makes wine so fascinating.
Its remote location, extreme climate, and pioneering winemakers are producing wines that challenge expectations and showcase a completely different side of South American viticulture.
Whether you’re sipping an elegant Pinot Noir from Río Negro, a vibrant Sauvignon Blanc from southern Chile, or planning a future trip to this breathtaking corner of the world, Patagonia reminds us that some of wine’s greatest treasures are found far from the beaten path.
When most people hear the words Vinho Verde, they often think of an inexpensive, slightly fizzy white wine that appears at summer picnics and backyard barbecues. While that's not entirely wrong, Vinho Verde is so much more than that. This week's Wine of the Week, the Vale do Homem Loureiro 2022 Vinho Verde DOC, is a perfect example of why this region deserves a closer look.
On a recent hot evening, I pulled this bottle from the refrigerator looking for something crisp, refreshing, and easy to enjoy. What I found was a wine bursting with personality, vibrant acidity, and a hint of spritz, making it incredibly refreshing.
In the Glass
The nose opens with aromas of citrus blossom, green apple, pear, and fresh lime zest. As the wine opens, subtle floral notes emerge, characteristic of the Loureiro grape.
On the palate, the wine is light-bodied and lively, showing flavors of lemon, green apple, pear, and a touch of white peach. A subtle mineral note runs through the wine, adding complexity and balance. One of the hallmarks of many Vinho Verde wines is a slight natural effervescence, and this wine delivers a gentle spritz that enhances its refreshing character without overpowering the fruit.
The finish is crisp, clean, and mouthwatering, making it nearly impossible to stop at one glass. And we didn’t, we had two bottles. No judging.
Understanding Vinho Verde
Vinho Verde is not a grape variety. It is a wine region located in the northwestern corner of Portugal, known for its lush green landscapes, Atlantic influence, and cool climate.
The name "Vinho Verde" literally translates to "green wine," but it refers to the wines’ youthful style rather than their color. The region produces white, rosé, and red wines, though white wines are by far the most widely recognized internationally.
The region is divided into nine sub-regions, each with its own unique growing conditions. This wine comes from the Cávado Sub-Region, located between the Cávado and Homem rivers. The area's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean contributes cooling breezes that help preserve acidity and freshness in the grapes.
Decoding the Label
Portuguese wine labels can sometimes feel intimidating, but once you
understand them, they tell you a great deal about what's inside the bottle.
Vale do Homem – The producer.
Vinho Verde DOC – Indicates the wine comes from the protected Vinho Verde Denomination of Origin.
Sub-Região do Cávado – Identifies the specific sub-region within Vinho Verde where the grapes were grown.
Loureiro – The grape variety used to make the wine.
Unlike many New World wines that prominently display the grape on the front label, Portuguese wines often emphasize the region first. Learning to identify names like Loureiro, Alvarinho, Arinto, and Trajadura can open the door to discovering some of Portugal's exciting wines.
The Grapes of Vinho Verde
One of the fascinating aspects of Vinho Verde is the wide variety of indigenous Portuguese grapes grown throughout the region. Some of the most common white varieties include:
Loureiro – Aromatic with floral, citrus, and stone fruit notes.
Alvarinho – aromatic white grape known for its crisp acidity, bright citrus and stone fruit flavors. Called Albariño from neighboring Spain.
Arinto – Known for vibrant acidity and citrus character.
Trajadura – Adds softness and fruitiness to blends.
Avesso – Fuller-bodied with tropical fruit notes.
This bottling highlights Loureiro, its fragrant aromatics and refreshing acidity. It is one of the signature varieties of the Lima and Cávado areas and shines particularly well when bottled on its own.
Food Pairings
The bright acidity and slight effervescence make this wine incredibly food-friendly.
Perfect pairings include:
Fresh oysters
Steamed clams
Shrimp cocktail
Grilled scallops
Sushi and sashimi
Fish tacos
Summer salads
Goat cheese
Grilled vegetables
Lemon herb chicken
Its refreshing character also makes it a wonderful aperitif on a warm afternoon, enjoyed simply with good company, by the pool, ocean, on the boat, just anywhere.
As I prepare for my upcoming trip to Luxembourg, I decided it was time to start exploring some of the country's wines. I opened a bottle of Domaine Cep d'Or 2023 Auxerrois Coteaux de Stadtbredimus, and all I can say is wow.
This was my first experience with the Auxerrois grape, and it certainly won't be my last. The wine immediately grabbed my attention with its freshness, bright fruit character, and wonderful balance. It's exactly the kind of wine that makes you stop, look at the label, and wonder why you've never been drinking it all along.
Meet the Auxerrois Grape
Auxerrois is a white grape variety that is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors like Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. Auxerrois (also
known as Auxerrois Blanc) is a white grape variety that is something of an
unsung hero in the wine world. It is most closely associated with the Moselle
Valley — both in Luxembourg and Alsace — and is believed to be a natural
crossing of Pinot Blanc and Gouais Blanc.
In Luxembourg, Auxerrois is considered a true specialty of the Moselle, where
the cool climate and mineral-rich soils allow it to express a particularly
fine, aromatic character. The grape tends to produce wines with moderate to
good acidity, soft fruit profiles centered on apple and pear, and a gentle
floral or spice note depending on how it's handled. At its best, it carries
that signature Moselle minerality — a chalky, stony quality that gives the wine
structure and a long, clean finish.
Tasting Notes
The 2023 Domaine Cep d'Or Auxerrois opens with inviting aromas of fresh apple, ripe pear, and just a hint of citrus.
On the palate, the wine delivers exactly what the nose promises. Crisp orchard fruit flavors dominate, with notes of green apple and juicy pear leading the way. A touch of citrus adds brightness, while lively acidity keeps everything fresh and energetic.
What really impressed me was the underlying minerality. There's a subtle stony character that provides structure and complexity without overwhelming the fruit.
The finish is clean, refreshing, and leaves you immediately wanting another sip.
Food Pairing Suggestions
The bright acidity and fresh fruit profile make this a versatile food wine.
I would happily pair it with:
Fresh seafood
Grilled white fish
Chicken piccata
Summer salads
Goat cheese
Asparagus dishes
Pork schnitzel
Mild cheeses
It would also make a fantastic aperitif wine on a warm afternoon.
About Domaine Cep d'Or
Located in the village of Stadtbredimus along Luxembourg's Moselle River, Domaine Cep d'Or is a family-owned estate with roots dating back to 1762 when the Vesque family settled in the region. Today, the winery farms approximately 18 hectares of vineyards on the steep limestone and marl slopes that overlook the Moselle.
The unique terroir around Stadtbredimus consists of calcareous marl, limestone, and clay-rich soils that contribute freshness, aromatic intensity, and minerality to the wines. The estate focuses on quality-driven viticulture, practicing sustainable farming and reducing yields to maximize grape quality rather than quantity.
Cep d'Or produces many of Luxembourg's traditional varieties, including Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, and Auxerrois. The winery has earned recognition for its still wines and Crémants while continuing a family winemaking tradition that spans more than 250 years.
Final Thoughts
One of my favorite things about wine is that there is always something new to discover.
This bottle reminded me exactly why I love exploring lesser-known wine regions and grapes. Luxembourg may not be the first country that comes to mind when you think of wine, but if this Auxerrois is any indication, it deserves a place on every wine lover's radar.
I can't wait to get to Luxembourg and continue my exploration of its wines firsthand. That will have to wait until the fall.
Somewhere in the northeast corner of Italy — 500 meters from the Slovenian border, an hour and a half from Venice, tucked into a green valley of gentle hills and marine-origin soils, there’s a winery run entirely by women. It has been, in one form or another, for over 150 years.
And at its heart is a grape that was once illegal to grow.
I sat down with Francesca Mecchia of Vigna Petrussa to talk about the Schioppettino — a grape so rare, so distinctly tied to its tiny corner of the world, that its very existence was nearly erased. What I got was something far bigger: a story about resilience, inheritance, and what happens when women refuse to let things disappear.
A Winery Built by Women — Three Generations Deep
The story of Vigna Petrussa begins with Francesca’s great-grandfather, who owned a large property with diverse activities — a mill, horses, farmland, and vines. But with nine children, the land was divided like a cake, each piece going to a different heir. The portion that passed to Francesca’s grandparents was modest. And when her grandfather died, her grandmother was left to run it alone.
“None of the local men wanted to help her,” Francesca explained. “Working under a woman was not acceptable then.” Her grandmother found support near the Slovenian border — a family that still works with them today.
When Francesca’s grandmother began to age, her mother — an elementary school teacher — started making the drive every weekend to help. Eventually, she made the decision to move back entirely, immerse herself in the winery, earn her sommelier credentials, and learn the land from the ground up.
“She became like a totally different woman,” Francesca said of her mother. “Stronger, more stubborn, full of passion.”
Then came Francesca herself — an architect, trained and working internationally — who received the same message her mother had once received from her grandmother: it’s time to come back.
She did. And she brought with her an international perspective on how wine is drunk, how markets work, and how a small family estate can find its place in a rapidly changing world.
Three women. Three chapters. One unbroken thread.
The Middle of Nowhere — and Why That Matters
“I always say we are in the middle of nowhere,” Francesca laughs, “because really everybody knows it, but not many people come to visit. And that’s a shame.”
The Colli Orientali del Friuli sits in Italy’s far northeast — a region of rolling hills that peak around 250 to 300 meters, bordered by Slovenia on one side and the Dolomites to the north. The climate is cool and often rainy, with fresh mountain winds meeting sea breezes that keep disease pressure low and vines healthy. Temperatures can swing 15 degrees Celsius between day and night — a gift for aromatic complexity and freshness in the wines.
But the real secret is underground.
The soils here are called ponka — a local name for the Eocene-era flysch: thin, fragile layers of marl and sandstone that crumble under rain and tractor weight, releasing minerals slowly into the vines. Francesca describes it beautifully: “Like millefoglie — the Italian pastry made with many thin layers. Under the weather and the tractor, it breaks into thousands of pieces, releasing a lot of minerality.”
That minerality — saline, almost oceanic — is a signature of every wine Vigna Petrussa makes.
The Grape That Almost Didn’t Survive
Before Schioppettino, there was Schioppettino — and then there was almost nothing.
The phylloxera epidemic that devastated European vineyards in the late 19th century wiped the grape nearly out of existence. What remained was quietly maintained by just one family in the village of Prepotto, even after the variety was removed from the official list of approved cultivars. Growing it was, technically, illegal.
It took until around 2003 — following years of painstaking work by a consortium of local producers, researchers, and passionate advocates — for Schioppettino di Prepotto to be recognized as its own DOC subzone. The area around Prepotto, a tiny village between the towns of Cormòns and Cividale del Friuli, was identified as the grape’s spiritual home: the terroir that best expresses its most defining trait, that vivid spice of black and green pepper.
There are now approximately 23 producers in the denomination. Vigna Petrussa is among the most dedicated — and arguably the most obsessed.
The name itself tells you something. Schioppettino comes from scoppiare — to burst, to explode. Named for the way the small, thick-skinned berries pop in your mouth with a satisfying crunch.
Four Faces of One Grape
If Francesca’s mother has a passion for Schioppettino, she has, as Francesca puts it with a smile, “an obsession.” Vigna Petrussa produces not one, not two, but four distinct expressions of the grape — each revealing a different dimension of the variety.
Rinera The entry point. Vinified in stainless steel with no wood influence, Rinera (named because the variety’s alternate name, Ribolla Nera, could no longer legally appear on labels) is Schioppettino in its most transparent form: crunchy red fruit, bright acidity, a whisper of pepper, and that characteristic lightness that makes it incredibly food-friendly. It spends a minimum of one year in bottle before release. Perfect as an aperitif, or chilled slightly with summer food.
Schioppettino di Prepotto This is the “star of the area,” as Francesca calls it — the denomination’s flagship expression and Vigna Petrussa’s most celebrated wine. By regulation, yields are capped at 1.5 kilos per plant (from a vine capable of producing five), and the wine must age a minimum of 18 months in large wood barrels, plus one year in bottle.
The winery uses old, large-format wooden casks deliberately — so that wood integrates without overshadowing the grape. On the nose: violet, forest floor, dark fruit, and that unmistakable green-and-black pepper. In the mouth: silky tannins, elegant structure, a mineral thread from the ponka, and a finish that lingers with precision and grace. It can pair with everything from mushroom risotto to seared tuna to Sichuan-spiced dishes — and it can be slightly chilled without losing a thing.
Riserva Produced only in the finest vintages, the Riserva spends three years in tonneau (medium-format all-wood barrels) plus one year in bottle. One might expect a bold, powerful wine — but Francesca takes a different approach. “It’s a female winery, so we tend to have a lighter wine. Where we point out on wines that are elegant.” The Riserva is more floral, more refined — a wine to drink slowly, to think about, to let evolve in the glass.
Perla Nera The fourth expression — and the most surprising. Perla Nera, meaning “Black Pearl,” revives a tradition that dates back to Francesca’s great-grandfather’s era, when men hunted wild game and Schioppettino was dried to make a richer, more robust wine for celebratory meals. A portion of the grapes is dried for one month before fermentation, then the wine ages three years in barrique. The result is rounder, deeper, more intense — with dried fruit, earthiness, and a gentle richness that pairs beautifully with aged cheeses, pâté, or roasted duck. It is also available in 500ml bottles, reflecting its origins as a special-occasion wine rather than an everyday pour.
Beyond Schioppettino
The passion for indigenous varieties extends across the entire portfolio. The Friulano (once called Tocai, before Hungary claimed the name) is vinified seven months in large old barrels and can age for five to seven years — an elegant white of little white flowers, dry almonds, and mineral depth. The Ribolla Gialla is vinified half in wood, half in steel for a lively, citrusy expression. Malvasia here is more mineral than aromatic — a reflection of the ponka soils. And Requienza — a blend created by Francesca’s mother 20 years ago from ancient indigenous varieties planted in small quantities by her ancestors — can age up to 15 years, a multi-layered testament to place and memory.
On the red side, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso offers a fascinating contrast to Schioppettino: where the latter is precise and elegant, Refosco is generous and juicy, with cherry-berry richness and jammy warmth. Thirty percent of the grapes are dried for a month before vinification; the remainder ages in tonneau for three years.
And then there is Picolit — perhaps Friuli’s most storied dessert wine. Only about 10 to 12 producers still make it. The grape’s floral abortion means that four vines yield just one 375ml bottle. Sweet, velvety, layered with dried apricot, and finished with a surprising lemon-zest brightness that keeps it from heaviness. It is exactly what a great dessert wine should be: generous without being cloying, complex without being exhausting.
Farming, the Moon, and the Limits of Prediction
Vigna Petrussa is SQNPI-certified — a sustainability program that prohibits synthetic pesticides and demands careful attention to the vineyard ecosystem. Almost all work is done by hand. The team is small, experienced, and flexible enough to make a harvest decision at 6pm for 7am the next morning.
They also pay attention to the moon cycles — not as mysticism, but as practical tradition. “We always try to bottle with the moon correct, because otherwise the wines take longer to settle,” Francesca explains. They’ve even noticed that certain corners of the cellar — near an underground stream — cause wines to move restlessly, never settling. So they move the barrels.
Climate change has upended even the most practiced rhythms. In recent years: one year with almost no rain, the next with violent, concentrated storms. A year when spontaneous fermentation began in the vineyard before anyone expected it. And 2024 — a harvest that finished not in mid-October as usual, but on September 22nd. “We were all surprised. All rushing, hysterical,” Francesca laughed. “You need to mix technology with your experience and your tradition. That is super important.”
Finding Vigna Petrussa
Vigna Petrussa’s wines are exported to the United States.
If you ever come across Schioppettino on a wine list or at a wine shop, order it.
Especially if you love:
Pinot Noir
Cabernet Franc
Cool-climate Syrah
Peppery reds
Earthy, food-friendly wines
If you’re lucky enough to come across the Picolit, treat yourself.
And if you ever find yourself in the northeast corner of Italy — an hour and a half from Venice, 500 meters from Slovenia, in the middle of nowhere — go visit.
Vigna Petrussa is a boutique family winery in Prepotto, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy. Find them at vignapetrussa.it or on Instagram and Facebook @vignapetrussa.
Watch the webinar or listen to the podcast to learn more from my conversation with Francesca
