Have Restaurants Lost Their Minds? Why I'm Saying No to $25 Glasses of Wine

"Wine isn't just another item on the menu. It's part of the conversation, the celebration, and the memories we make around the table."

This week I read an article in *The Drinks Business * "US restaurants pushing wine markups to six times cost" discussing the rising cost of wine in restaurants. According to the article, some restaurants are marking up wine as much as six times their cost. Six times.

I had to read that twice.

Then I found myself thinking less about the numbers and more about my time in the restaurant business and our wine list.

More Than Chardonnay and Cabernet

Of course, we carried Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc. You have to have a few of those. Guests expect those wines.

But I wanted our wine list to be about discovery.

I wanted people to try Grüner Veltliner instead of another Chardonnay.

Maybe Tannat instead of another Cabernet.

I didn't want the wine whether by glass or bottle to break the bank but it had to be good.

When Did Wine Become a Luxury Item?

The article pointed out something that really struck me.

For decades, there was a fairly common rule of thumb in the restaurant business: the revenue from selling the first glass of wine often covered the wholesale cost of the bottle. The remaining glasses generated profit.

Was every restaurant the same? Of course not.

But today we're seeing something very different.

Some restaurants are charging two, three—even six times their cost.

And honestly?

I'm not paying $25 for a glass of Jordan Chardonnay.

Jordan makes a beautiful Chardonnay.

This isn't about the wine.

It's about value.

I Understand Restaurant Economics

Before anyone says, "You don't understand what restaurants are dealing with," let me stop you.

I do.

I've lived it.

Food costs are higher.

Payroll is higher.

Insurance is higher.

Utilities are higher.

Everything costs more than it did five years ago.

Restaurant margins have always been razor thin.

I understand every one of those challenges because I've signed those checks.

But just because something costs more to operate doesn't mean every increase should be passed along to the guest. (such has merchant fees, but that's a topic for another discussion)

At some point, you have to ask yourself whether you're pricing people out of the experience.

People Aren't Ordering Less Wine Because They Don't Like Wine

They're ordering less because they don't see the value anymore.

Think about dinner for two.

A couple of appetizers.

Two entrées.

Dessert.

Tax.

Tip.

Add a bottle of wine and suddenly you're looking at $250 or $300 for a night out.

Or maybe they skip the bottle and order two glasses.

Now those two glasses cost almost as much as buying the entire bottle at a wine shop.

Consumers aren't stupid.

They're doing the math.

They're deciding to have a glass of wine before they leave home.

Or they're skipping wine altogether.

And restaurants wonder why wine sales are declining.

Hospitality Isn't About the Highest Margin

One of my favorite moments at Trio North Wildwood wasn't when someone ordered the most expensive bottle on the list.

It was when someone trusted me enough to say,

"What do you recommend?"

That's hospitality.

Sharing knowledge.

Creating confidence.

Helping someone discover a new favorite wine.

Building relationships.

That's something no spreadsheet can measure.

Wine Should Invite People In

Wine has always been about sharing.

Sharing a meal.

Sharing stories.

Sharing laughter.

Creating memories around a table.

It should never feel like something you need to finance.

I'd much rather see a restaurant sell three reasonably priced bottles during an evening than one overpriced bottle that leaves guests wondering whether they'll come back.

Because those guests will return.

They'll tell their friends.

They'll trust your recommendations.

They'll order dessert.

Maybe another glass.

That's how you build loyal customers.

Not by making people feel like they've been taken advantage of.

My Hope for Restaurants

I genuinely want restaurants to succeed.

They're part of the fabric of every community.

But I also hope more restaurants remember that wine isn't just another revenue stream.

It's part of the guest experience.

Offer affordable bottles.

Create wine flights.

Introduce guests to grapes beyond the usual suspects.

Teach them something.

Make wine fun.

Make it approachable.

Make it memorable.

Because at the end of the day, people don't remember what percentage markup was on the bottle.

They remember who they shared it with.

And that's what hospitality has always been about.

I'd love to hear from you.

Have restaurant wine and cocktail prices changed the way you dine out? Are you still ordering a bottle with dinner, choosing a glass, or skipping alcohol altogether?

Join the conversation in the comments. I have a feeling I'm not the only one asking this question.

Click here to read the article referenced https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2026/07/us-restaurants-pushing-wine-markups-to-six-times-cost

Wine of the Week: Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée Cava

If you had asked me years ago what I thought of Freixenet, I probably would have smiled and pictured that familiar black bottle of Cava sitting on the liquor store shelf. It was inexpensive, reliable, and, let's be honest, one of those bottles many of us picked up when you were young and broke.

So when I received a bottle of Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée as part of my Certified Cava Educator course, I had to admit I was a little skeptical.

My first thought?

"Well...it has to be good if they included it in the certification program."

I tucked the bottle away until a weekend trip to Plymouth, Massachusetts, to visit my high school friend Sharon. Mother Nature had other plans for us that Saturday. Rain kept us indoors, so we decided to make the best of it by baking a blueberry galette and, of course, popping the cork.

A Different Side of Freixenet

This wasn't the Freixenet I remembered.

Elyssia is produced as Freixenet's premium expression of Cava, and the name itself sets the tone. Derived from the Latin word Elysium, Elyssia means "a state of absolute happiness" or "paradise." After tasting it, I'd say the name fits beautifully.

The wine is a blend of:

• Macabeo
• Parellada
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir

This combination gives the wine both traditional Cava character and a bit more richness and elegance than many people expect from the brand.

In the Glass

Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée pours with a lively, persistent stream of tiny bubbles and offers an inviting floral bouquet.

On the palate it was surprisingly elegant, featuring:

• Creamy mouthfeel
• Acacia blossom
• Bright citrus fruit
• A delicate hint of strawberry
• Fresh acidity that keeps everything balanced

The wine spends a minimum of 10 months aging on the lees, giving it that lovely creamy texture while still maintaining freshness and vibrant fruit.

Pairing It with a Rainy Afternoon

Our homemade blueberry galette made for a wonderful rainy-day project, and the Cava paired nicely with it.

That said, I couldn't help thinking the wine would have been even better alongside a peach galette or one featuring red fruits like strawberries, raspberries, or cherries. Those flavors would have echoed the wine's subtle strawberry note and allowed both the dessert and the wine to shine a little brighter.

Of course, sitting in the living room catching up with a lifelong friend may have been the best pairing of all.

Wine Facts

Wine: Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée Cava

Region: Penedès, Spain

Classification: Cava

Grapes:

• Macabeo
• Parellada
• Chardonnay
• Pinot Noir

Aging: Minimum 10 months on the lees

Tasting Notes:

• Acacia blossom
• Citrus fruit
• Hint of strawberry
• Creamy mouthfeel
• Fine persistent bubbles

Food Pairings:

• Peach galette
• Strawberry tart
• Triple cream cheeses
• Roast chicken
• Seafood paella
• Grilled shrimp
• Brunch favorites

Wine of the Week: Fjord Vineyards 2025 Hudson River Region White Gamay Noir

 There's something special about ending the day on my front porch with a glass of wine in hand. This summer, my porch has become my favorite tasting room. It's the perfect spot for people-watching, enjoying the evening breeze, and admiring my hydrangea bush as it slowly begins to wind down for the season.

This week's wine fit that moment perfectly.

The 2025 White Gamay Noir from Fjord Vineyards is one of those wines that makes you stop and think, "Wait...this is made from the Gamay Noir grape?"

Most people associate Gamay Noir with the light, fruity red wines of Beaujolais. It's known for bright red berry flavors, lively acidity, and easy drinkability. But here, winemaker Matt Spaccarelli takes the grape in a completely different direction.

Instead of allowing the juice to spend time on the skins—as is done for red wine—the grapes were whole-cluster pressed directly into stainless steel tanks. Because the juice never had contact with the skins or seeds, it extracted virtually no color or tannins. After aging for one month in stainless steel, the wine was filtered and bottled, resulting in a beautifully fresh and expressive white wine made entirely from a red grape.

It's a reminder that winemaking is just as much about technique as it is about the grape itself.

In the Glass

On the palate I found:

• Crisp pear
• Bright lemon zest
• A delicate floral note
• Distinct slate minerality
• Refreshing acidity that keeps you reaching for another sip

The stainless steel fermentation preserves the purity of the fruit while allowing the mineral character to shine through. It's clean, energetic, and incredibly refreshing.

Food Pairings

Its bright acidity and mineral backbone make it a versatile food wine. I'd pair it with:

• Grilled shrimp or scallops
• Goat cheese
• Summer salads with citrus vinaigrette
• Lemon herb chicken
• Simply grilled vegetables

Or do what I did—pour a glass, head to the porch, and enjoy it without any food at all.

About Fjord Vineyards

While their tasting room is temporarily closed as construction continues on a beautiful new facility, you don't have to wait to enjoy their wines. This White Gamay Noir is available for purchase directly through the winery's website.

I can't wait to visit once the new tasting room opens, but until then, this bottle brought a little piece of Fjord to my front porch.

Wine of the Week: Château des Antonins Bordeaux Blanc 2023

With temperatures soaring last week, I started digging through the fridge looking for something crisp and refreshing. I came up with a 2023 Château des Antonins Bordeaux Blanc. We have to remember that Bordeaux isn't just about red wine.

Wait... Bordeaux makes white wine?

When most people hear Bordeaux, they immediately think of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

But Bordeaux also produces some outstanding white wines that deserve far more attention than they receive.

Most dry White Bordeaux wines are blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, combining the bright citrus and freshness of Sauvignon Blanc with the richer texture and roundness of Sémillon. The result is a wine that's balanced, elegant, and incredibly food-friendly.

If you've tried New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and found it a little too grassy, too herbal, to racy, or too intense, don't give up on Sauvignon Blanc altogether.

Instead, find a bottle of White Bordeaux.

In the Glass

The Château des Antonins Bordeaux Blanc 2023 is composed of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sémillon, a classic Bordeaux Blanc blend.

The wine opens with fresh aromas of citrus and tropical fruit before leading into flavors of:

• Lemon zest
• Tropical fruit
• A hint of straw
• Beautiful minerality

Rather than being loud or aggressively citrus-driven, this wine is refined. The Sémillon softens Sauvignon Blanc's sharper edges, creating a wine that's refreshing without being overly racy.

On a hot summer afternoon, it absolutely hit the spot.

Food Pairings

This is one of those wines that seems to pair with just about everything.

I'd happily serve it with:

• Grilled shrimp
• Goat cheese
• Summer salads
• Grilled chicken with herbs
• Fresh seafood
• Lemon pasta
• Roasted vegetables
• Mild cheeses

It's also perfectly enjoyable all by itself while relaxing on the porch—which is exactly what I did. (We have a great front porch)

Final Thoughts

White Bordeaux may not receive the same attention as Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand but perhaps it should.

It offers freshness without overwhelming acidity, complexity without heaviness, and versatility that makes it one of summer's most underrated wines.

If you're looking to expand your wine horizons—or simply want something refreshing that isn't another glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc—pick up a bottle of White Bordeaux.

This bottle price was under $15. A steel!

Wine of the Week: Ronchi Di Cialla Schioppettino 2021

 

One of the things I love most about wine is that every bottle tells a story. Sometimes that story begins in the vineyard. Sometimes it begins during a conversation with a winemaker. And occasionally, it begins by simply standing in the right place.

A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of interviewing Francesca Mecchia of Vigna Petrussa in Italy's Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. We spent our conversation discussing one of the region's most treasured native grapes—Schioppettino. Her passion for this historic variety was contagious, and by the end of our interview, I promised myself I would find a bottle.

As it turns out, I didn't have to look very far.

Last Thursday, I was in New York City and scored reservations at Ci Siamo (thank you very much Zach). While we were waiting to be seated, I found myself standing right next to the wine cellar. I started scanning the bottles, the way you do, and there it was. A bottle of Ronchi Di Cialla Schioppettino 2021, just sitting there like it had been waiting for me.

There wasn't even a decision to make. I hadn't looked at the dinner menu yet. I had no idea what I was ordering. I simply knew that bottle was coming to the table.

Everything Francesca Described Was in the Glass

The first sip immediately reminded me of everything Francesca had explained during our conversation.

Schioppettino is unlike many Italian red wines. Instead of being big, heavy, and tannic, it is elegant and energetic. The wine opens with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, currant, before finishing with the grape's unmistakable signature cracked black pepper spice.

That peppery finish is one of Schioppettino's defining characteristics, and Ronchi di Cialla captured it beautifully.

Despite being a red wine, it felt surprisingly light on its feet, making it an excellent choice even during the warmer months of summer.

 Gnocco Fritto and the Caramelized Onion Torta

A Nearly Perfect Food Wine

Our meal turned into an unexpected lesson in just how versatile Schioppettino can be.

It paired beautifully with the warm goat gouda cheese-filled puff pastry appetizer Gnocco Fritto and the Caramelized Onion Torta (that they are known for) we shared. The bright acidity and peppery spice balanced the richness perfectly.

My daughter ordered ravioli, another excellent match, as the wine complemented the pasta without overpowering it.

I ordered a delicate olive oil poached orata, and admittedly, I was a little concerned. Would a red wine work?

While it wasn't the perfect pairing, it was surprisingly enjoyable. Because Schioppettino is lighter-bodied with fresh acidity rather than heavy tannins, it respected the fish more than many red wines would have.

That versatility is one of the grape's greatest strengths.

olive oil poached orata

ravioli

What to Pair with Schioppettino

One reason I enjoyed this wine so much is its flexibility at the table.

Try pairing Schioppettino with:

• Charcuterie and aged cheeses
• Mushroom dishes
• Onion tarts and savory pastries
• Ravioli or mushroom-filled pasta
• Roast chicken
• Herb-crusted pork tenderloin
• Duck breast
• Grilled sausages
• Wood-fired pizza

Worth Seeking Out

Restaurant wine lists often make wines seem expensive, but this bottle was surprisingly reasonable in New York City. It was $68 and personally, that is not bad.  I'd expect to find it retailing somewhere around $25–30, making it an excellent value for anyone looking to explore beyond the usual Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir.

If you're someone who enjoys discovering lesser-known grapes, Schioppettino deserves a place on your list. It's distinctive without being intimidating, elegant without being overly serious, and offers something just a little different from the wines most of us reach for.

My conversation with Francesca introduced me to Schioppettino. (You can find the conversation here)

Finding a bottle by chance in New York City allowed me to experience firsthand everything she described.

Sometimes that's exactly how wine works. You learn about a grape, you become curious, and then one day, when you least expect it, it finds you.

And when it does, don't hesitate.

Order the bottle.

Grape of the Month: Traminette

When people talk about aromatic white wines, the conversation often turns to Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, or Gewürztraminer. But there's another grape that deserves a spot in your glass, especially if you enjoy wines bursting with floral aromas and vibrant fruit flavors: Traminette.

As we move into the heart of summer, Traminette is my pick for July. It's aromatic, food-friendly and  refreshing and it is 30 years old.

While it may not have the name recognition of Chardonnay or Riesling, once you experience its intoxicating aromas and versatility at the table, you'll wonder why more people aren't talking about it.

A Grape with a Purpose

Unlike many wine grapes that trace their origins back centuries, Traminette is a relatively recent addition to the wine world.

Developed through a breeding program at Cornell University and released in 1996, Traminette was created by crossing Gewürztraminer with the French-American hybrid Joannes Seyve 23.416.

The goal was to create a grape that captured the captivating aromatics of Gewürztraminer while offering better cold hardiness and disease resistance for growers in the eastern United States.

The result was a grape perfectly suited for regions like New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Virginia, and Michigan.

Why Traminette Thrives in New York

New York presents unique challenges for grape growers. Cold winters, humidity, spring frost risks, and varying soil types can make vineyard management difficult.

Fortunately, Traminette was built for exactly those conditions.

The grape is:

• Winter hardy
• Resistant to many vineyard diseases
• Adaptable to various soil types
• Capable of producing high-quality fruit in cool climates

Whether grown in the Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley, or Lake Erie regions, Traminette consistently delivers expressive wines that showcase both fruit and floral character.

For New York growers, it's a grape that offers reliability without sacrificing quality.

What Does Traminette Taste Like?

If you've ever enjoyed Gewürztraminer, you'll notice some familiar characteristics.

Traminette is wonderfully aromatic, often filling the glass before you even take a sip.

Common aromas and flavors include:

• Rose petals
• Jasmine
• Honeysuckle
• Peach
• Apricot
• Pineapple
• Citrus zest
• Baking spice
• Orange blossom

On the palate, Traminette often displays bright acidity balanced by ripe fruit flavors. Depending on the producer, styles can range from dry to slightly off-dry.

The combination of floral aromatics and refreshing acidity makes Traminette a fantastic summer wine.

A Food Pairing Superstar

One of the things I love most about Traminette is its versatility at the table. I personally like it with Thai food but will pair with a variety of foods.

Seafood

• Grilled shrimp
• Crab cakes
• Scallops

Spicy Cuisine

• Thai curries
• Vietnamese dishes
• Indian cuisine
• Spicy shrimp tacos

Pork & Poultry

• Roast pork loin
• Apple-glazed pork chops
• Roast chicken
• Turkey with fruit chutney

Cheese Pairings

• Brie
• Camembert
• Havarti
• Goat cheese

Summer Favorites

• Peach salads
• Fruit and cheese boards
• Grilled vegetables
• Charcuterie platters

For a summer gathering, try pairing a chilled Traminette with grilled shrimp skewers and a peach salad. The wine's floral notes beautifully complement the sweetness of the fruit while its acidity refreshes the palate.

Beyond New York

Although New York has embraced Traminette, you'll find it growing throughout the eastern and Midwestern United States.

Notable plantings can be found in:

• Pennsylvania
• Virginia
• Ohio
• Indiana
• Michigan
• Missouri

Why You Should Try Traminette

In a world where many wine drinkers reach for the same familiar varieties, Traminette offers something different.

It combines:

• The floral elegance of Gewürztraminer
• The freshness of cool-climate wines
• Outstanding food-pairing versatility
• A unique American success story

Most importantly, it's delicious.

Whether you're sitting on the deck, relaxing by the pool, or enjoying dinner with friends, Traminette delivers an aromatic and refreshing experience that feels tailor-made for summer.

Wine of the Week: Avinyó Gran Reserva Cava La Ticota Selecció 2017

Some corks are pulled on an ordinary day. Others mark a moment you'll be talking about for the rest of your life. This week's bottle falls squarely into the second category. 

On June 17, 2026, our grandson made his grand entrance into the world — 8 lbs 10 oz, 21.5 inches of pure perfection, and (as two completely unbiased grandparents will tell you) absolutely the most handsome little guy ever to arrive on this planet. Looking just like his dad too! (parents won't let us post pics of their children...sorry)

We popped the cork on the Avinyó Gran Reserva Cava "La Ticota" Selecció 2017, and it did not disappoint.

In the Glass

This Cava is made from 100% Xarel.lo and aged for 72 months. From the moment the cork was eased from the bottle, a steady stream of fine bubbles rose through the glass, creating an elegant, persistent mousse.

The nose opened with fresh Macintosh apple aromas, while the palate delivered crisp orchard fruit flavors layered with complexity gained from extended aging. A subtle note of lime rind emerged on the finish, adding brightness and freshness to a wine that balanced maturity with vibrancy.

The wine felt refined without being overly serious, a perfect combination for a celebration centered around family, joy, and new beginnings.

What Makes a Gran Reserva Cava Special?

While many wine drinkers are familiar with Champagne, fewer understand the quality levels within Cava.

Cava is Spain's traditional-method sparkling wine, produced using the same secondary fermentation in bottle that creates Champagne's signature bubbles. The difference lies in the grapes, terroir, and aging requirements.

A standard Cava must age a minimum of nine months on the lees (spent yeast cells).

A Reserva requires at least 18 months of aging.

A Gran Reserva must spend a minimum of 30 months aging on its lees before release.

The 2017 Avinyó Gran Reserva had ample time to develop these characteristics aging for 72 months, resulting in a wine with elegance, depth, and remarkable balance.

Food Pairing Suggestions

Although we enjoyed this bottle as a celebratory toast, Gran Reserva Cava is exceptionally food-friendly.

Consider pairing it with:

• Complex dishes
• Roasted meat and chicken
• Oysters
• Thai dishes
• Aged cheeses
• Creamy dishes

Final Thoughts

One of the things I love most about wine is its ability to become part of our memories.

Years from now, I may not remember every tasting note from this bottle. But I'll remember sitting with Paul, raising a glass, and celebrating the arrival of our healthy grandson.