Wine of the Week: Living Roots 2023 Bone Dry Riesling

 From South Australia to New York's Finger Lakes, Living Roots is proof that great wine and a great love story can go hand in hand.

Last year, while traveling through the Finger Lakes, I was on my way to Weis Vineyards when I passed Living Roots Wine & Co. I remember thinking, I need to stop there on my way back to Watkins Glen, where I was staying.

And I am so glad I did!

Not only did I discover some wonderful wines, but I also learned the story behind Living Roots. It's a story of love, adventure, family vineyards, and two people who brought their winemaking worlds together across two continents. (bring out the tissues)

Living Roots: A Love Story Between Australia and the Finger Lakes

Every winery has a story, but the one behind Living Roots is particularly special.

It begins with Sebastian (Seb) Hardy, who grew up surrounded by vineyards in South Australia. Winemaking was practically in his blood. Seb comes from a long line of Australian winemakers, with family roots in the industry stretching back generations.

Then there's Colleen, a Rochester, New York native who decided to take a leap of faith.

Colleen left her traditional 9-to-5 career behind to pursue her interest in wine. In 2014, she traveled halfway around the world to South Australia, where she took a cellar-hand position at Hardy's Tintara Winery for the vintage.

And that's where she met Seb.

What began as a shared passion for wine blossomed into a romance and eventually a business that would connect their two homes.

Rather than choosing between Australia and New York, they decided to embrace both.

And Living Roots Wine & Co. was born.

Two Wineries, Two Hemispheres, Two Harvests, One Couple

Seb and Colleen founded Living Roots in 2016

They make wine in both the Adelaide Hills of South Australia and the Finger Lakes of New York. Because the seasons are flipped between hemispheres, they get to do something most winemakers never will: work two harvests every year. (That’s a lot of stress and frequent flyer miles.) Today they spend about nine months in the Finger Lakes and three months in Australia.

Each region plays to its strengths. In the cool Finger Lakes, the focus is on rich whites and sparkling wines. In South Australia, it's vibrant, medium-bodied reds. Their first New York home was an urban winery and tasting room in Rochester, opened in 2017. 

Today their Finger Lakes winery sits in Hammondsport, on Keuka Lake, which by the way has a killer view of Keuka Lake!

Living Roots 2023 Bone Dry Riesling

The 2023 Bone Dry Riesling was made using several techniques that contribute to its texture and personality.

Wild fermentation: Rather than relying solely on commercially selected yeast, the wine was fermented with naturally occurring yeast. This can contribute additional complexity and character.

Ten months on the lees: Lees are the spent yeast cells left behind after fermentation. Allowing wine to rest on its lees can add texture, richness, and a rounder mouthfeel.

Unfined and unfiltered: The wine wasn't subjected to the usual fining and filtration processes before bottling, an approach that can help preserve certain textural components.

A touch of neutral oak: Eight percent of the wine spent four months in neutral oak barrels. Because these barrels have already been used, they generally impart little noticeable oak flavor. Instead, they can contribute subtle textural differences.

Put all these techniques together, and you have a Riesling that offers a little more texture and softness than some of its bone-dry Finger Lakes counterparts.

On the nose: My first impression was a lovely whiff of lemon curd, followed by a subtle mineral character. There was something inviting about the citrus aroma, with a richness that went beyond freshly squeezed lemon.

On the palate: The wine was lively, with bright citrus notes and a touch of orchard fruit. I picked up a wet-stone character that added another dimension to the wine.

The mouthfeel was pleasant, with a little more roundness than I typically expect from a bone-dry Finger Lakes Riesling.

My thoughts: I enjoyed this wine, although I will admit that I would have liked a little more of that racy acidity I love in Riesling.

For me, it wasn't quite as lively as I had hoped.

I suspect the combination of extended lees aging and that small percentage of neutral oak helped soften the perception of acidity, giving the wine a rounder, more restrained feel. The oak doesn't necessarily reduce the actual acidity, but it can influence how we experience the wine.

And you know what? That's perfectly okay!

Not every Riesling needs to make your mouth pucker.

What Would I Pair With It?

With its citrus character, mineral notes, and slightly rounded mouthfeel, I would reach for this Riesling with seafood, especially seared scallops, grilled shrimp, or a delicate white fish with lemon.

I also think it would be lovely with roast chicken, a creamy goat cheese, or a simple pasta dish with lemon and herbs.

Wine of the Week: Passaggio Winery 2018 Connect 50.33.17 – A Bittersweet Toast to Cindy Cosco

Some bottles of wine tell a story. Others hold memories of friendships, special moments, and the people who make the wine world such a wonderful place. This week's Wine of the Week is a little bittersweet because it's not just about what's in the glass. It's about a talented winemaker, a friendship that began years ago, and the closing of a chapter.

How Passaggio Winery Came Into My Life

I first met Cindy Cosco, the woman behind Passaggio Winery, at a wine bloggers conference. I believe it was around 2015. One of the things I love most about being part of the wine industry is the incredible people you meet along the way, and Cindy is certainly one of them.

In 2017, just before another wine bloggers conference, I had the opportunity to visit Cindy's tasting room in Sonoma. I tasted through her wines and was so impressed that I purchased a case and had it shipped home.

What I always admired about Cindy was her willingness to think outside the box. She sourced grapes from different wine regions throughout California and created wines that reflected her own vision rather than following the crowd.

Just because you're making wine in California doesn't mean you have to produce big, bold Cabernet Sauvignon or oaky Chardonnay.

Cindy understood that. She wasn't afraid to explore different grape varieties, experiment with blends, and let the fruit speak for itself. Her wines had personality, balance, and a sense of individuality.

When the case arrived home, and we opened a bottle, Paul looked at me and said something that has stuck with me ever since:

"This winemaker makes really good wine."

Coming from Paul, that was quite the endorsement!

We enjoyed her wines so much that we joined the Passaggio wine club. I've also turned neighbors, friends and customers onto her wines by suggesting a visit when they were out in Sonoma.

The End of a Chapter

A few weeks ago, I received an email from Cindy announcing that she was closing this chapter of her life. October 25, 2026, would be the final day for Passaggio Winery.

My heart sank a little.

When you follow a winemaker for years, visit their tasting room, enjoy their wines, and get to know the person behind the label, news like this hits differently.

I wish I could have been there to raise a glass with Cindy on her final day. Unfortunately, living clear across the country made that impossible.

But I can certainly raise a glass from here.

The good news is that I still have a wonderful selection of Passaggio wines tucked away in my cellar. Each time I open one, I'll remember the tasting room visit, the wines that impressed us so much, and the friendship that started all those years ago.

And isn't that one of the beautiful things about wine? It has a way of connecting us to people, places, and memories long after the moment has passed.

Wine of the Week: Passaggio 2018 Connect 50.33.17

Only 148 cases produced

For this week's wine, I reached into the cellar and pulled out a bottle of Passaggio Winery's 2018 Connect 50.33.17.

The name Connect seems particularly fitting for this occasion. Wine has a wonderful way of connecting people, and that's exactly what Cindy's wines have done for me.

This limited-production red blend brings together three Bordeaux grape varieties, sourced from two different California wine regions.

The blend:

• 50% Cabernet Sauvignon – Albino Vineyards, Sonoma

• 33% Merlot – Albino Vineyards, Sonoma

• 17% Petit Verdot – Hux Vineyards, Lodi

Cabernet Sauvignon provides the structure and backbone, while Merlot contributes softness and luscious fruit. Petit Verdot, often used in small amounts in Bordeaux-style blends, adds depth, color, and complexity.

Together, these grapes create a wine that showcases Cindy's talent for bringing different varieties and vineyard sources together in harmony.

What's in the Glass?

At eight years old, I was curious to see how this wine was holding up.

The answer? Beautifully!

On the nose: Romantic aromas of oak, vanilla, and cherry greeted me from the glass. As the wine opened, a delicate hint of blueberry lingered in the background.

On the palate: This wine was still going strong! There was lovely red fruit, complemented by juicy blackberry notes. The tannins had softened beautifully with age, creating a smooth, velvety mouthfeel without losing the wine's character.

The finish: Beautifully balanced, lingering, and satisfying. 

This was a wine that had aged gracefully, and I'm so glad I had the opportunity to enjoy it now.

More Than Just a Bottle of Wine

As I sat enjoying my glass of Connect, I couldn't help but think about how appropriate the name was.

Wine connects us.

It connects us to the land where the grapes are grown, to the people who nurture the vines, and to the winemakers who turn those grapes into something special.

But perhaps most importantly, it connects us to one another.

If I hadn't attended that wine bloggers conference years ago, I might never have met Cindy. I might never have visited her tasting room, discovered her wines, or become a member of her wine club.

And I certainly wouldn't have this wonderful collection of Passaggio wines in my cellar.

A Toast to Cindy

Cindy, I want to wish you all the best as you begin your next chapter.

Thank you for sharing your passion, creativity, and talent with all of us. Thank you for making wines that weren't afraid to be different, wines that encouraged people to explore beyond the familiar, and wines that were simply a pleasure to drink.

While Passaggio Winery may have closed its doors, the memories and friendships created along the way will live on.

I hope our paths cross again someday, preferably with a glass of wine in hand.

Until then, I'll continue enjoying the bottles of Passaggio tucked away in my cellar, savoring each one a little more knowing there won't be another vintage to replace it.

Here's to you, Cindy. To the wines, the memories, the friendships, and whatever wonderful adventures come next.

Grape of the Month: Gamay — There’s So Much More to Beaujolais Than Nouveau!

November is here, Thanksgiving is right around the corner, and there's one grape I think deserves a place at your holiday table: Gamay!

When you hear the word Gamay, chances are you think of Beaujolais Nouveau. You know, that young, fruity French wine that makes its grand entrance every year on the third Thursday of November. It's fun, it's festive, and it's meant to be enjoyed right away.

But there is so much more to Gamay and Beaujolais than Nouveau!

If you've been passing over bottles of Beaujolais because you think they're all light, simple, fruity wines, you're missing out. Some Beaujolais wines are elegant, complex, structured, and capable of aging beautifully.

This month we are going to dive into Beaujolais, because I’d like to see a bottle on your Thanksgiving table.

Getting to Know Gamay

DNA research has shown that Gamay is a natural crossing of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Interestingly, Chardonnay and Aligoté share those same parents, making them genetic siblings. Share that with your guest at Thanksgiving dinner.

Gamay has been cultivated in Burgundy and Beaujolais for centuries. In fact, back in 1395, Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, ordered Gamay vines removed from much of Burgundy, favoring Pinot Noir instead.

Fortunately, Gamay found a home farther south in Beaujolais, where it has flourished.

The grape is known for its bright acidity, relatively low to moderate tannins, and beautiful red fruit characteristics.

Depending on where it's grown and how it's made, you might find aromas and flavors of:

• Fresh cherries and raspberries
• Strawberries and red currants
• Violets and other delicate flowers
• Blackberries and plums in more concentrated examples
• Earthy, spicy, and mineral notes in more complex wines

Gamay is generally lighter-bodied, but don't let that fool you. Some expressions have surprising depth and structure.

Understanding the Four Styles and Levels of Beaujolais

Learn these 4 tiers of Beaujolais and you’ll have a great understanding of the French Gamay.

1. Beaujolais AOC and Beaujolais Supérieur - Think of these as your everyday Beaujolais wines. They generally come from the southern part of the region, where clay and limestone soils are common.

They're fresh, fruity, approachable, and perfect for casual sipping.

Beaujolais Supérieur is a designation within the Beaujolais appellation, with requirements including a higher minimum potential alcohol level.

2. Beaujolais-Villages comes from 38 designated communes, primarily in the northern part of the region, where granite and other rocky soils are common.

These wines tend to offer more concentration, depth, and structure than basic Beaujolais.

You'll still find plenty of that juicy cherry and raspberry character, but often with additional spice, floral aromas, and minerality.

This is a wonderful category for exploring quality Gamay without spending a fortune.

3. Beaujolais Nouveau - Beaujolais Nouveau is released on the third Thursday of November, just weeks after the grapes are harvested.

For those wondering, this year Beaujolais Nouveau Day falls on November 19.

The wine is commonly made using carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration, where fermentation begins inside whole berries in a carbon dioxide-rich environment.

This produces a fresh, fruity, low-tannin wine, sometimes with distinctive banana or bubblegum aromas.

Nouveau is meant to be enjoyed young. It's a celebration of the harvest, not a wine you tuck away in your cellar for the next decade. Make sure you put a nice chill on the bottle before serving.

4. Cru Beaujolais – Now we’re talking the impressive stuff.

At the top of the Beaujolais quality hierarchy are the ten crus, located in the northern part of the region.

Each cru has its own personality, influenced by soil, elevation, climate, and winemaking techniques.

These are wines that can show remarkable complexity and, in some cases, age beautifully for years.

Meet the Ten Crus of Beaujolais

I didn’t mean for this to get long an lengthy, but I want to talk about the 10 Crus of Beaujolais, so you know the expressions that will be your glass.

All 10 Crus make only dry red wine from Gamay, under the same climate and similar rules. What changes is the land: pink granite, blue diorite, schist, clay and steep or gentle slopes. They all have a personality of their own.

Saint-Amour Elegant, fruity, floral, and sometimes spicy. A romantic favorite, especially around Valentine's Day.

Juliénas Structured and spicy, with red and dark fruit, floral notes, and earthy complexity.

Chénas The smallest cru, often showing floral aromas, spice, and the ability to age.

Moulin-à-Vent Powerful and structured, with dark fruit and earthy complexity. One of the most age-worthy crus.

Fleurie Often called the Queen of Beaujolais. Elegant, perfumed, silky, and beautifully floral.

Chiroubles Delicate, bright, and aromatic, often with fresh red fruit and lively acidity.

Morgon Richer and more structured, known for cherry, dark fruit, and earthy notes. Can develop Burgundy-like complexity with age.

Régnié Vibrant, approachable, and fruit-forward, with cherry, raspberry, and subtle spice.

Côte de Brouilly Grown on the slopes of Mont Brouilly, offering concentration, freshness, and mineral character.

Brouilly The largest and southernmost cru. Often generous, fruity, and approachable.

Gamay Beyond France

Gamay does grow other places besides Beaujolais. Of course I am going to plug New York first.  It grows in the Hudson Valley and producers Whitecliff Vineyars, Millbrook Vineyard and Fjord Vineyards all make wonderful Gamay.

In the Finger Lakes region of New York, Sheldrake Point produces a nice Gamay.

Other places that grow Gamay are: Oregon, Switzerland, Ontario, Canada.

Why Gamay and Thanksgiving Are a Perfect Match

Let’s talk Thanksgiving. What I love about Thanksgiving is no two households are the same. Everyone has that one special dish that gets past down every year.

Most Thanksgiving tables have turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, green beans, some form of potato, then the family tradition dishes.

Gamay and its bright acidity and soft tannins makes it the perfect match for the table. It won’t clash with your turkey or veggies. The fresh raspberry and cherry will work real well with the cranberry sauce (whether it’s homemade or Ocean Spray Jellied Sauce).

It’s really a great wine to have at Thanksgiving and throughout the year.

What will be on my table? One or two of those three bottles of Beaujolais you see in the picture.

Wine of the Week: Acentor 2020 Maturana

 

The $16 Hidden Gem in My Wine Cellar

Every once in a while, I pull a bottle from my wine cellar and wonder, "Why on earth didn't I buy more of this?"

That was exactly my reaction when I opened my last bottle of Acentor 2020 Maturana from Rioja, Spain.

This little gem had been quietly aging in my wine cellar since the summer of 2023. I paid a whopping $16 for it. Yes, $16! And after tasting it, all I could think was, I should have purchased a case!

What makes this bottle even more special is the grape itself. It's not your everyday Rioja made from Tempranillo or Garnacha. This wine is made from Maturana Tinta, a nearly forgotten grape with a fascinating history, a Bordeaux connection, and a remarkable comeback story.

And you know how much I love introducing you to grapes you may never have heard of! Honestly, I thought about saving this for the "Grape of the Month" but I was to excited to share it with you.

Meet Maturana Tinta: Rioja's Nearly Forgotten Grape

When most people think of red wine from Rioja, Tempranillo immediately comes to mind. But Rioja has a few surprises tucked away in its vineyards, and Maturana Tinta is one of them.

Maturana Tinta is considered one of Rioja's historic grape varieties. For generations, it was grown in the region, particularly around the village of Navarrete, before nearly disappearing. 

DNA testing revealed that the grape known locally as Maturana Tinta de Navarrete is genetically identical to Castets, a rare historic red grape from Bordeaux, France.

So while Maturana Tinta has deep roots in Rioja's viticultural history, it isn't exclusive to Spain. Its French counterpart, Castets, has also been preserved and cultivated in limited quantities.

That makes this grape's story even more fascinating. Two different wine regions, two different names, and one shared grape variety!

What Makes Maturana Tinta Different?

Maturana Tinta produces small, compact clusters of tiny berries with shiny, blackish-blue skins.

Those little berries pack quite a punch.

The grape is particularly rich in anthocyanins, the natural pigments responsible for giving red wine its color. This helps explain why wines made from Maturana Tinta can display such deep, intense ruby and purple hues.

But color is only part of the story.

Maturana Tinta is also known for its naturally high acidity, pronounced tannins, and concentrated flavors. These characteristics give the wine structure, freshness, and the potential to develop beautifully with age.

Expect dark fruit flavors, often accompanied by herbal, earthy, spicy, and mineral characteristics.

It's a grape with personality.

From Nearly Extinct to Rediscovered

Like so many of Europe's historic grape varieties, Maturana Tinta suffered tremendously during the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century.

Phylloxera, a tiny insect that attacks grapevine roots, devastated vineyards throughout Europe. When growers began replanting, they often favored varieties that were more familiar, commercially reliable, and productive.

In Rioja, that meant grapes such as Tempranillo took center stage, while Maturana Tinta was largely left behind.

For decades, the variety teetered on the edge of extinction.

Fortunately, local researchers and viticulturists recognized the importance of preserving Rioja's genetic grape heritage. They tracked down surviving vines, studied the variety, and worked to bring it back into cultivation.

In 2007, Maturana Tinta was officially authorized for use in wines bearing the DOCa Rioja designation.

Today, it remains a relatively rare grape, but a handful of producers are giving it the attention it deserves.

Some bottle Maturana Tinta as a single-varietal wine, allowing its distinctive personality to shine. Others use small percentages in blends to contribute color, acidity, structure, and complexity.

It's a wonderful example of why preserving historic grape varieties matters. Imagine if this grape had disappeared completely. We would have lost a little piece of wine history, not to mention some delicious wine!

Acentor 2020 Maturana: A Rioja Worth Discovering

The Acentor 2020 Maturana is made by Issac Fernandez through Isaac Fernandez Seleccion, from estate-grown fruit cultivated in limestone and iron-rich soils.

Those vineyard conditions, combined with the grape's naturally concentrated berries, help create a wine with both depth and freshness.

Limestone-rich soils are often associated with wines that maintain vibrant acidity, while the iron-bearing components contribute to the vineyard's distinctive growing environment.

What I particularly enjoyed about this bottle was how well everything had come together after a few years in the cellar.

Tasting Notes: Dark Fruit, Spice, and Beautiful Balance

This wine was dark purple, think purple teeth when you are done.

The nose opened with inviting aromas of dark berries, leather, and spice.

On the palate, the wine delivered layers of ripe blackberry, black cherry, and dark plum, complemented by hints of vanilla, toasted oak, and warm baking spices.

Despite the grape's reputation for pronounced acidity and firm tannins, this wine had an elegant, beautifully integrated structure. The dark fruit was rich without feeling heavy, and the freshness kept everything lively.

The tannins had softened nicely, creating a smooth, harmonious mouthfeel.

The finish was complex and lingering, with dark fruit giving way to leather, subtle minerality, and a touch of toasty spice.

It was one of those wines that continued to reveal something new with each sip.

And for $16? Are you kidding me?

This is exactly why I always say that a great bottle of wine doesn't have to come with a hefty price tag.

What to Pair with Maturana Tinta

With its dark fruit, lively acidity, savory notes, and structured tannins, Maturana Tinta is a fantastic food wine.

Here are a few pairings I'd love to try:

• Grilled ribeye or New York strip steak

• Braised short ribs

• Roasted lamb with rosemary and garlic

• Wild mushroom risotto

• Chorizo or Spanish-style pork

• Aged Manchego cheese

The Beauty of Discovering Lesser-Known Grapes

One of the things I love most about wine is that there is always something new to discover.

We tend to reach for the grapes we know: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Tempranillo. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with that.

But there are thousands of grape varieties around the world, each with its own story, personality, and sense of place.

Maturana Tinta is a perfect example.

So the next time you're shopping for wine, don't automatically reach for a familiar grape. Take a chance on something you've never heard of.

You might discover your next favorite wine.

And if you happen to spot a bottle of Maturana Tinta from Rioja, give it a try. I certainly hope to find another one!

Wine of the Week: Breaux Vineyards 2020 Marquis de Lafayette

 A Toast to Virginia Wine Month

I didn't even realize it was Virginia Wine Month when we opened a bottle of Breaux Vineyards 2020 Marquis de Lafayette. Talk about perfect timing! October is Virginia Wine Month, a celebration of the wineries, vineyards, and people who have helped put Virginia on the wine map.

My introduction to Virginia wine goes back to a TasteCamp trip that seems like yesterday, but when I stop and think about it, it was at least ten years ago. Where does the time go?

TasteCamp was an opportunity for wine writers and bloggers to explore emerging wine regions, meet winemakers, walk through vineyards, and experience the wines firsthand. It was during that trip that I discovered just how much Virginia had to offer.

I've been a big fan of Virginia wines ever since. Even took my husband there two years ago for our anniversary to turn him onto Virginia Wines.

Breaux Vineyards is a family-owned winery with a beautiful setting between the Blue Ridge and Short Hill Mountains in Purcellville, Virginia, located in Loudoun County. (and dog friendly, but dogs must stay outside)

The story began in 1994 when the Breaux family purchased a 404-acre property that already had a small vineyard planted in 1985. What started as a hobby of making wine for family and friends grew into something much bigger. Today, it is one of the oldest, largest and most acclaimed wineries in Northern Virginia.

In April 1997, Breaux Vineyards officially opened its doors to the public.

Today, the estate has approximately 104 acres of vineyards planted with a diverse collection of grape varieties. From Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot, Nebbiolo, Viognier, and more, Breaux has embraced the possibilities of Virginia's growing conditions.

The Wine: 2020 Marquis de Lafayette

This was a purchase from our anniversary trip to Breaux. Marquis de Lafayette is a Cabernet Franc-based wine with some Petit Verdot and Merlot blended in. I couldn't find the exact percentages, but the wine does spend 17 months in French oak barrels.

On the nose: Tobacco and worn leather were the first aromas that caught my attention. There was a touch of  earthiness to it.  The savory notes were complemented by dark fruit and a subtle suggestion of spice.

On the palate: Lots of beautiful black fruit! Think blackberry, black cherry, and a touch of black plum. The fruit was rich and expressive without being overwhelming. The tobacco and leather notes carried through from the nose, adding complexity and giving the wine a slightly rustic, Old World character.

The tannins felt nicely integrated, providing structure without overpowering the fruit. There was a pleasant balance between the dark fruit and savory characteristics, with a lingering finish that left me wanting another sip.

What Would I Pair With It?

This is a wine that belongs at the dinner table.

With its dark fruit, savory notes, and balanced structure, I can think of quite a few dishes that would make wonderful companions.

A grilled ribeye or filet mignon would be an obvious choice. The wine's tannins and fruit would complement the richness of the beef.

But I'd also reach for this bottle with herb-roasted lamb, pork tenderloin with a mushroom sauce, or even a hearty beef stew.

And since we're in October, how about a wild mushroom risotto? Those earthy flavors would be wonderful alongside the tobacco and leather characteristics of the wine.

For something simple, a board of aged cheddar, Gouda, and a little charcuterie would work beautifully.

October Is Virginia Wine Month

What better time to explore Virginia wine than October?

Virginia Wine Month celebrates the state's wine industry during one of the most exciting times of the year: harvest.

While Virginia has a long history of grape growing, its modern wine industry has developed into a diverse community of wineries producing everything from sparkling wines and crisp Viognier to elegant Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Bordeaux-style blends.

And Virginia has something else going for it: beautiful wine country.

Rolling hills, mountain views, historic towns, and welcoming tasting rooms make it a wonderful destination for a wine getaway.

If you've never explored Virginia wine country, put it on your list.

You don't have to travel to California or France to discover interesting wines. Sometimes they're being made just a few states away.

 

Wine of the Week: Symington’s 2015 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port

 We don’t see enough Port these days. Does anyone really drink it anymore? I think somewhere along the line Port developed a reputation as an old-fashioned wine, something your grandfather might have enjoyed after dinner while sitting in a leather chair smoking a cigar.

I love me a good Port and I am guilty for not thinking about it more often.

My neighbors came over for dinner recently and brought a cherry pie for dessert. Paul jumped up and announced he had the perfect pairing. (I taught him well.) He disappeared into the wine closet and came back holding a bottle of Symington’s 2015 Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port. 

And let me tell you, he absolutely nailed this pairing. (I have to give credit where credit is deserved)

What makes a Vintage Port special

Not every year produces a Vintage Port. A vintage is only declared when the grapes are truly exceptional, when the growing season delivers fruit worthy of bottling on its own and aging for decades. So when you open one, you’re tasting a year the winemakers felt was something special.

Quinta do Vesuvio

The Symington family acquired Quinta do Vesuvio in 1989, and it’s considered one of the most magnificent properties in Portugal’s Douro Valley. What sets it apart is tradition: Vesuvio is the last major Douro estate to make its Ports exclusively by foot treading in granite lagares, an unbroken practice dating back to 1927. Yes, people still crush these grapes by foot, and you can taste the care in the glass.

Only 11,400 bottles of the 2015 were produced.

In the glass

The blend is 60% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca and 10% Sousão. The aroma is intense, all deep, dark fruit. On the palate it’s beautifully balanced, full bodied with concentrated fruit laced with dark plum and baked cherry. It manages to be rich and powerful yet elegant at the same time, which is exactly what you want from a great Port.

And that baked cherry note? Next to a slice of cherry pie, was a wowzer!. The fruit in the wine and the fruit in the pie simply lifted each other up.

So, is Port sweet?

One of the questions I often hear is, "Isn't Port really sweet?"

Yes, Port generally contains a significant amount of residual sugar. But a good Port is about so much more than sweetness.

Port is fortified, which means grape spirit is added during fermentation, stopping it before all the natural sugar turns to alcohol. That gives you a wine that’s both rich and sweet, and stronger than your average glass of red.

That’s also why you don’t drink a lot of it. Port is a finishing wine, the one you pour with dessert as you wind down the evening. A small glass goes a long way.

How to enjoy it

• With dessert: Fruit pies, dark chocolate, and blue cheeses like Stilton are classic matches.
• Skip dessert? Pair it with a good cigar instead.
• Serving tip: Vintage Port throws sediment, so decant it before pouring and serve slightly cool, around 60–62°F.

Port may not be the trendiest bottle on the shelf, but it’s one of wine’s great pleasures. Next time you’re ending a dinner with friends, reach past the coffee and pour a little Port. You'll be glad you did.

Wine of the Week: 2025 Roccolo Bianco di Merlot

I’m still riding my Swiss vacation, so we’re staying in Switzerland for this week’s Wine of the Week. Honestly, I think my body is still there too. 

After a long flight, we finally arrived at our hotel in Merlischachen, a tiny village on the shores of Lake Lucerne. We were starving and very ready for a glass of something.

Just down the road was the Coop, Switzerland's grocery chain. We walked down and picked up some cheese and a bottle of wine.

There was one small complication.

We didn’t have a corkscrew. ( I forgot to throw one in my suitcase) We weren't sure the hotel had one either.

So our wine selection had to be made very carefully. It didn’t matter how interesting the bottle looked, if it had a cork, it wasn’t coming back to the hotel with us!

That’s how the 2025 Roccolo Bianco di Merlot from Ticino ended up in our basket.

Back at the hotel, we discovered another minor problem: no ice, no ice bucket. (yes I asked at the front desk)

I walked across the street to the restaurant, where they kindly gave me some ice. Back in our room, the bathroom sink became our makeshift wine chiller.

Sometimes you just have to improvise.

Wait…White Merlot?

Yes!

We tend to think of Merlot as a red wine grape, but in Ticino, producing Bianco di Merlot—or white Merlot—is a regional specialty.

The wine is made from red Merlot grapes, but the juice has little or no contact with the grape skins. Since the color in red wine comes primarily from the skins, separating the juice from those skins quickly allows the winemaker to produce a white wine from a red grape.

Think of it as Merlot showing us an entirely different side of its personality.

In the Glass

The Roccolo is very pale, almost water-white with a whisper of straw.

On the nose: delicate white flowers and ripe stone fruit.

On the palate: beautiful minerality and a soft mouthfeel. It's fresh and easy to sip, and the Merlot gives it a gentle roundness you don't always find in a crisp white.

And with our cheese, it was a good match. But we would have eaten anything.

After two flights, what felt like miles of walking through the Frankfurt airport, and finally arriving in our little Swiss village, it tasted pretty darn good.

What Do You Eat With White Merlot?

Our first pairing was about as simple as it gets: cheese and crackers.

And it was perfect.

The freshness and minerality of the wine worked beautifully against the richness of the cheese, while its softer texture kept the pairing from feeling sharp or overly acidic.

But Bianco di Merlot is incredibly food-friendly.

I would especially reach for it with:

• A cheese board

• Raclette

• Grilled or poached fish

• Shrimp or scallops

• Linguine with clams

• Lemon-herb chicken

• Risotto

• A summer vegetable tart

• Salads with goat cheese

• Light pasta dishes

• Antipasti

A bottle doesn't have to be expensive or difficult to find to create a memory. Sometimes it's the bottle you grab from a grocery-store shelf because you're tired, hungry and don't have a corkscrew.