As I prepare for my upcoming trip to Luxembourg, I decided it was time to start exploring some of the country's wines. I opened a bottle of Domaine Cep d'Or 2023 Auxerrois Coteaux de Stadtbredimus, and all I can say is wow.
This was my first experience with the Auxerrois grape, and it certainly won't be my last. The wine immediately grabbed my attention with its freshness, bright fruit character, and wonderful balance. It's exactly the kind of wine that makes you stop, look at the label, and wonder why you've never been drinking it all along.
Meet the Auxerrois Grape
Auxerrois is a white grape variety that is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors like Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Chardonnay. Auxerrois (also
known as Auxerrois Blanc) is a white grape variety that is something of an
unsung hero in the wine world. It is most closely associated with the Moselle
Valley — both in Luxembourg and Alsace — and is believed to be a natural
crossing of Pinot Blanc and Gouais Blanc.
In Luxembourg, Auxerrois is considered a true specialty of the Moselle, where
the cool climate and mineral-rich soils allow it to express a particularly
fine, aromatic character. The grape tends to produce wines with moderate to
good acidity, soft fruit profiles centered on apple and pear, and a gentle
floral or spice note depending on how it's handled. At its best, it carries
that signature Moselle minerality — a chalky, stony quality that gives the wine
structure and a long, clean finish.
Tasting Notes
The 2023 Domaine Cep d'Or Auxerrois opens with inviting aromas of fresh apple, ripe pear, and just a hint of citrus.
On the palate, the wine delivers exactly what the nose promises. Crisp orchard fruit flavors dominate, with notes of green apple and juicy pear leading the way. A touch of citrus adds brightness, while lively acidity keeps everything fresh and energetic.
What really impressed me was the underlying minerality. There's a subtle stony character that provides structure and complexity without overwhelming the fruit.
The finish is clean, refreshing, and leaves you immediately wanting another sip.
Food Pairing Suggestions
The bright acidity and fresh fruit profile make this a versatile food wine.
I would happily pair it with:
Fresh seafood
Grilled white fish
Chicken piccata
Summer salads
Goat cheese
Asparagus dishes
Pork schnitzel
Mild cheeses
It would also make a fantastic aperitif wine on a warm afternoon.
About Domaine Cep d'Or
Located in the village of Stadtbredimus along Luxembourg's Moselle River, Domaine Cep d'Or is a family-owned estate with roots dating back to 1762 when the Vesque family settled in the region. Today, the winery farms approximately 18 hectares of vineyards on the steep limestone and marl slopes that overlook the Moselle.
The unique terroir around Stadtbredimus consists of calcareous marl, limestone, and clay-rich soils that contribute freshness, aromatic intensity, and minerality to the wines. The estate focuses on quality-driven viticulture, practicing sustainable farming and reducing yields to maximize grape quality rather than quantity.
Cep d'Or produces many of Luxembourg's traditional varieties, including Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, and Auxerrois. The winery has earned recognition for its still wines and Crémants while continuing a family winemaking tradition that spans more than 250 years.
Final Thoughts
One of my favorite things about wine is that there is always something new to discover.
This bottle reminded me exactly why I love exploring lesser-known wine regions and grapes. Luxembourg may not be the first country that comes to mind when you think of wine, but if this Auxerrois is any indication, it deserves a place on every wine lover's radar.
I can't wait to get to Luxembourg and continue my exploration of its wines firsthand. That will have to wait until the fall.
Somewhere in the northeast corner of Italy — 500 meters from the Slovenian border, an hour and a half from Venice, tucked into a green valley of gentle hills and marine-origin soils, there’s a winery run entirely by women. It has been, in one form or another, for over 150 years.
And at its heart is a grape that was once illegal to grow.
I sat down with Francesca Mecchia of Vigna Petrussa to talk about the Schioppettino — a grape so rare, so distinctly tied to its tiny corner of the world, that its very existence was nearly erased. What I got was something far bigger: a story about resilience, inheritance, and what happens when women refuse to let things disappear.
A Winery Built by Women — Three Generations Deep
The story of Vigna Petrussa begins with Francesca’s great-grandfather, who owned a large property with diverse activities — a mill, horses, farmland, and vines. But with nine children, the land was divided like a cake, each piece going to a different heir. The portion that passed to Francesca’s grandparents was modest. And when her grandfather died, her grandmother was left to run it alone.
“None of the local men wanted to help her,” Francesca explained. “Working under a woman was not acceptable then.” Her grandmother found support near the Slovenian border — a family that still works with them today.
When Francesca’s grandmother began to age, her mother — an elementary school teacher — started making the drive every weekend to help. Eventually, she made the decision to move back entirely, immerse herself in the winery, earn her sommelier credentials, and learn the land from the ground up.
“She became like a totally different woman,” Francesca said of her mother. “Stronger, more stubborn, full of passion.”
Then came Francesca herself — an architect, trained and working internationally — who received the same message her mother had once received from her grandmother: it’s time to come back.
She did. And she brought with her an international perspective on how wine is drunk, how markets work, and how a small family estate can find its place in a rapidly changing world.
Three women. Three chapters. One unbroken thread.
The Middle of Nowhere — and Why That Matters
“I always say we are in the middle of nowhere,” Francesca laughs, “because really everybody knows it, but not many people come to visit. And that’s a shame.”
The Colli Orientali del Friuli sits in Italy’s far northeast — a region of rolling hills that peak around 250 to 300 meters, bordered by Slovenia on one side and the Dolomites to the north. The climate is cool and often rainy, with fresh mountain winds meeting sea breezes that keep disease pressure low and vines healthy. Temperatures can swing 15 degrees Celsius between day and night — a gift for aromatic complexity and freshness in the wines.
But the real secret is underground.
The soils here are called ponka — a local name for the Eocene-era flysch: thin, fragile layers of marl and sandstone that crumble under rain and tractor weight, releasing minerals slowly into the vines. Francesca describes it beautifully: “Like millefoglie — the Italian pastry made with many thin layers. Under the weather and the tractor, it breaks into thousands of pieces, releasing a lot of minerality.”
That minerality — saline, almost oceanic — is a signature of every wine Vigna Petrussa makes.
The Grape That Almost Didn’t Survive
Before Schioppettino, there was Schioppettino — and then there was almost nothing.
The phylloxera epidemic that devastated European vineyards in the late 19th century wiped the grape nearly out of existence. What remained was quietly maintained by just one family in the village of Prepotto, even after the variety was removed from the official list of approved cultivars. Growing it was, technically, illegal.
It took until around 2003 — following years of painstaking work by a consortium of local producers, researchers, and passionate advocates — for Schioppettino di Prepotto to be recognized as its own DOC subzone. The area around Prepotto, a tiny village between the towns of Cormòns and Cividale del Friuli, was identified as the grape’s spiritual home: the terroir that best expresses its most defining trait, that vivid spice of black and green pepper.
There are now approximately 23 producers in the denomination. Vigna Petrussa is among the most dedicated — and arguably the most obsessed.
The name itself tells you something. Schioppettino comes from scoppiare — to burst, to explode. Named for the way the small, thick-skinned berries pop in your mouth with a satisfying crunch.
Four Faces of One Grape
If Francesca’s mother has a passion for Schioppettino, she has, as Francesca puts it with a smile, “an obsession.” Vigna Petrussa produces not one, not two, but four distinct expressions of the grape — each revealing a different dimension of the variety.
Rinera The entry point. Vinified in stainless steel with no wood influence, Rinera (named because the variety’s alternate name, Ribolla Nera, could no longer legally appear on labels) is Schioppettino in its most transparent form: crunchy red fruit, bright acidity, a whisper of pepper, and that characteristic lightness that makes it incredibly food-friendly. It spends a minimum of one year in bottle before release. Perfect as an aperitif, or chilled slightly with summer food.
Schioppettino di Prepotto This is the “star of the area,” as Francesca calls it — the denomination’s flagship expression and Vigna Petrussa’s most celebrated wine. By regulation, yields are capped at 1.5 kilos per plant (from a vine capable of producing five), and the wine must age a minimum of 18 months in large wood barrels, plus one year in bottle.
The winery uses old, large-format wooden casks deliberately — so that wood integrates without overshadowing the grape. On the nose: violet, forest floor, dark fruit, and that unmistakable green-and-black pepper. In the mouth: silky tannins, elegant structure, a mineral thread from the ponka, and a finish that lingers with precision and grace. It can pair with everything from mushroom risotto to seared tuna to Sichuan-spiced dishes — and it can be slightly chilled without losing a thing.
Riserva Produced only in the finest vintages, the Riserva spends three years in tonneau (medium-format all-wood barrels) plus one year in bottle. One might expect a bold, powerful wine — but Francesca takes a different approach. “It’s a female winery, so we tend to have a lighter wine. Where we point out on wines that are elegant.” The Riserva is more floral, more refined — a wine to drink slowly, to think about, to let evolve in the glass.
Perla Nera The fourth expression — and the most surprising. Perla Nera, meaning “Black Pearl,” revives a tradition that dates back to Francesca’s great-grandfather’s era, when men hunted wild game and Schioppettino was dried to make a richer, more robust wine for celebratory meals. A portion of the grapes is dried for one month before fermentation, then the wine ages three years in barrique. The result is rounder, deeper, more intense — with dried fruit, earthiness, and a gentle richness that pairs beautifully with aged cheeses, pâté, or roasted duck. It is also available in 500ml bottles, reflecting its origins as a special-occasion wine rather than an everyday pour.
Beyond Schioppettino
The passion for indigenous varieties extends across the entire portfolio. The Friulano (once called Tocai, before Hungary claimed the name) is vinified seven months in large old barrels and can age for five to seven years — an elegant white of little white flowers, dry almonds, and mineral depth. The Ribolla Gialla is vinified half in wood, half in steel for a lively, citrusy expression. Malvasia here is more mineral than aromatic — a reflection of the ponka soils. And Requienza — a blend created by Francesca’s mother 20 years ago from ancient indigenous varieties planted in small quantities by her ancestors — can age up to 15 years, a multi-layered testament to place and memory.
On the red side, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso offers a fascinating contrast to Schioppettino: where the latter is precise and elegant, Refosco is generous and juicy, with cherry-berry richness and jammy warmth. Thirty percent of the grapes are dried for a month before vinification; the remainder ages in tonneau for three years.
And then there is Picolit — perhaps Friuli’s most storied dessert wine. Only about 10 to 12 producers still make it. The grape’s floral abortion means that four vines yield just one 375ml bottle. Sweet, velvety, layered with dried apricot, and finished with a surprising lemon-zest brightness that keeps it from heaviness. It is exactly what a great dessert wine should be: generous without being cloying, complex without being exhausting.
Farming, the Moon, and the Limits of Prediction
Vigna Petrussa is SQNPI-certified — a sustainability program that prohibits synthetic pesticides and demands careful attention to the vineyard ecosystem. Almost all work is done by hand. The team is small, experienced, and flexible enough to make a harvest decision at 6pm for 7am the next morning.
They also pay attention to the moon cycles — not as mysticism, but as practical tradition. “We always try to bottle with the moon correct, because otherwise the wines take longer to settle,” Francesca explains. They’ve even noticed that certain corners of the cellar — near an underground stream — cause wines to move restlessly, never settling. So they move the barrels.
Climate change has upended even the most practiced rhythms. In recent years: one year with almost no rain, the next with violent, concentrated storms. A year when spontaneous fermentation began in the vineyard before anyone expected it. And 2024 — a harvest that finished not in mid-October as usual, but on September 22nd. “We were all surprised. All rushing, hysterical,” Francesca laughed. “You need to mix technology with your experience and your tradition. That is super important.”
Finding Vigna Petrussa
Vigna Petrussa’s wines are exported to the United States.
If you ever come across Schioppettino on a wine list or at a wine shop, order it.
Especially if you love:
Pinot Noir
Cabernet Franc
Cool-climate Syrah
Peppery reds
Earthy, food-friendly wines
If you’re lucky enough to come across the Picolit, treat yourself.
And if you ever find yourself in the northeast corner of Italy — an hour and a half from Venice, 500 meters from Slovenia, in the middle of nowhere — go visit.
Vigna Petrussa is a boutique family winery in Prepotto, Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy. Find them at vignapetrussa.it or on Instagram and Facebook @vignapetrussa.
Watch the webinar or listen to the podcast to learn more from my conversation with Francesca
When a friend brings wine to dinner, I'm always excited to see what appears on the table. This week's wine was especially exciting because it checked two boxes for me.
First, my family owned vineyards in Hungary dating back to 1707 (that's a story for another day). Second, I happen to be a big fan of the Furmint grape.
So when Cathy and Michael arrived with a bottle of Pajzos 2022 T-Furmint from Hungary's famous Tokaj region, I couldn't wait to open it.
For many wine lovers, the mention of Tokaj immediately brings to mind the region's legendary sweet wines. Tokaji Aszú has long been considered one of the world's great dessert wines and was once known as "The Wine of Kings and the King of Wines."
But Tokaj is much more than sweet wine.
Today, many producers are showcasing Furmint in dry styles, revealing a side of the grape that is fresh, vibrant, and incredibly food-friendly.
About the Furmint Grape
Furmint is Hungary's most important white grape variety and the backbone of the Tokaj region. Its naturally high acidity makes it ideal for both sweet and dry wines.
When made in a dry style, Furmint often displays flavors of orchard fruit, citrus, stone fruit, and mineral notes. It has enough body and texture to stand up to food while maintaining refreshing acidity.
It's a grape that deserves much more attention from wine lovers looking to explore beyond Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Chardonnay.
Tasting Notes
The Pajzos 2022 T-Furmint pours a pale straw color in the glass.
On the nose, aromas of white peach, citrus, and tropical fruit immediately jump out.
The palate is crisp and refreshing with flavors of juicy white peach, lemon zest, and hints of tropical fruit. A backbone of bright acidity keeps everything lively, while a subtle minerality adds complexity and length to the finish.
This is the type of wine that makes you want another sip.
Clean, bright, and refreshing, it is exactly the kind of white wine I reach for during the warmer months.
Food Pairings
The vibrant acidity and fruit-forward profile make this wine incredibly versatile at the table.
Try pairing it with:
Grilled shrimp
Seafood salads
Lemon-herb chicken
Fresh summer vegetables
Goat cheese
Sushi and sashimi
Grilled fish
Light pasta dishes
Pork schnitzel
Its crisp character also makes it perfect for enjoying on the deck, at the beach, or with friends on a warm summer evening.
About Pajzos Winery
Pajzos Winery is located in the heart of Hungary's Tokaj region and is recognized for producing wines that reflect the unique volcanic soils and historic vineyards of the area. The winery balances traditional winemaking practices with modern techniques, focusing on expressing the distinctive character of Tokaj's indigenous grape varieties, particularly Furmint.
While the winery is well known for its sweet Tokaji wines, bottles like this dry T-Furmint demonstrate the versatility of both the grape and the region.
Final Thoughts
One of the things I love most about wine is how a single bottle can spark memories, conversations, and curiosity.
At under $20 a bottle, the Pajzos 2022 T-Furmint is an affordable introduction to one of Europe's most exciting white grapes.
Thank you, Cathy and Michael, for sharing this wonderful wine.
Have you tried Furmint? I'd love to hear about your experience.
If your summer
wine rotation has gotten a little predictable—same Sauvignon Blanc, same rosé,
same chilled Chardonnay on repeat—I want to introduce you to the grape that is
officially my June Grape of the Month: Rkatsiteli. Yes, that’s a mouthful.
Don’t worry, the folks at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery in the Finger Lakes call
it "Rkat," and I think we should all adopt that. Once you have a
glass on the dock, by the pool, or on a backyard chaise lounge, you’ll be
hooked.
I sat down with
Megan Frank, fourth-generation owner of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, on an
episode of Winephabet Street and stopped by the winery and visited with her
last May, and the more we talked, the more I realized this grape is the perfect
summer pour—high acid, beautifully aromatic, and so versatile it can carry you
from morning mimosa hour all the way to a curry-and-citronella sunset.
A grape with 8,000 years of receipts
Rkatsiteli is
the oldest known grape variety in the world. Carbon-dated grape seeds were
unearthed at the bottom of clay vessels called qvevri in the Republic of
Georgia, the actual birthplace of wine. Researcher Patrick McGovern, sometimes
called "the Indiana Jones of wine," traced winemaking back roughly
8,000 years to those qvevri, and the seeds inside were Rkatsiteli.
So how did it
end up in upstate New York? Konstantin Frank, Megan’s great-grandfather, grew
up in Odessa, Ukraine, where he managed a massive vineyard estate planted
heavily to Rkatsiteli. He fled to New York during World War II, arrived
speaking six languages and holding a PhD, washed dishes to survive, and then—at
retirement age—started a wine revolution in the Finger Lakes by proving
European vinifera grapes could thrive in cold climates. Locals called him
"the crazy old doctor on the hill." He didn’t care. Four generations
later, the winery is still going, and Rkatsiteli is one of their flagship
pours.
Why Rkatsiteli is your summer wine
Here’s why I’m
putting "Rkat" front and center for June:
•High natural acidity. Rkatsiteli holds onto acid like
nothing else—10 to 13 grams per liter at harvest. Translation: it is
razor-fresh, mouth-watering, and wakes up the palate on a hot afternoon the way
a cold splash of Keuka lake water does.
•Beautifully aromatic. Think white pear, citrus zest,
white peach, stone fruit, w tropical with a hint of tropical fruit to feel
summery without being sweet.
•Versatile across styles. Dr. Frank makes three: a
traditional-method sparkling, the stainless-steel "OG," and an
"Amber" that’s skin-fermented in amphora. There is a Rkatsiteli for
every summer occasion.
•A conversation starter. Walk into a backyard barbecue
with a bottle of Rkatsiteli and you are instantly the most interesting guest at
the party. (Pro tip: just say "Rkat." Everyone will laugh, then
they’ll ask for a pour.)
The three Rkatsitelis you want this summer
Dr. Konstantin
Frank Sparkling Rkatsiteli. Made in the traditional method (yes, the same way
Champagne is made), extra brut, three years on the lees. Bright, crisp, and
dressed for a pool deck. This is your "the boat is loaded, let’s go"
wine.
Dr. Konstantin
Frank Rkatsiteli "OG." Stainless-steel fermented, fresh, vibrant,
and—fun fact—the number-one selling wine out of their tasting room three years
running. Pour this for backyard barbecue night, grilled shrimp, or a Tuesday on
the patio, just because.
Dr. Konstantin
Frank "Amber" Rkatsiteli. A gateway orange wine. The thick skins on
Rkatsiteli mean it can handle two-plus weeks on skins, then time in amphora,
without becoming aggressively tannic. Think gold-amber color, a floral nose, a
gentle texture, and a food-friendly grip. The summer dinner party wine.
•Boat day cooler: the sparkling, full stop. It’s lower
alcohol than rosé, and the acid keeps you fresh in the heat.
•Backyard grill night: the OG with grilled shrimp tacos,
lemongrass chicken skewers, or a classic Pad Thai (Megan and I both went
there—it’s a stellar match).
•Date night al fresco: the Amber with grilled stone
fruit and burrata, smoked trout, or a roast chicken with herbs.
•Curry night on the deck: any of the three. Rkatsiteli
loves Thai, Indian, Lebanese, and anything with exotic spice.
Where to find it
Dr. Konstantin
Frank Winery ships to most U.S. states and is distributed in 40 states. Visit drfrankwines.com to order or to plan a
trip to the Finger Lakes. They’re on Keuka Lake (Y-shaped, "canoe
landing" or “lake with an elbow” in the Iroquois language—and yes, it’s
one of the most beautiful of the eleven Finger Lakes, pristine and tranquil).
Watch the full episode
Want the whole
story—Konstantin Frank’s incredible journey, the qvevri vs. amphora deep dive,
the tasting through all three wines? Watch the Winephabet Street episode here: https://youtu.be/g8jQFcWVS-k?si=C7SgXQTIRmXegEYZ
And if you pour
a bottle of "Rkat" this June, tag me @hvwinegoddess. I want to see
your boat days, your pool floats, your sunset patios. Cheers to the oldest
grape in the world finally getting its summer moment.
There’s something about that first truly warm spring day that immediately makes me reach for rosé. serious. That’s exactly what happened when I pulled a bottle of Elena Walch 2024 Rosé from the fridge.
I was first introduced to Elena Walch through our Winephabet Street episode, which featured Karoline Walch discussing Lagrein. One conversation was all it took for me to become intrigued by the winery, their philosophy, and the wines coming out of Alto Adige. I enjoyed the wines so much that I eventually carried both their Lagrein and Rosé at Trio North Wildwood.
Now that we are entering full-on rosé season, opening this bottle felt like the perfect way to welcome warmer weather.
In the Glass
The name alone tells you something about the precision behind this wine. "20/26" refers to the winemaking process itself: grapes are harvested at 20 degrees Babo (a measure of sugar concentration at peak ripeness), and fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a carefully controlled temperature of 26°C.
The blend is Lagrein, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. Lagrein, Alto Adige's red grape, brings structure and depth. Pinot Noir contributes elegance and aromatic lift. Merlot rounds out the midpalate with gentle body and fruit. The winemaking uses the classic saignée method: the grape must sits briefly in contact with the skins, then the rose-colored juice is drawn off without pressing. This produces color, concentration, and texture without heaviness.
On the nose, fresh strawberry and raspberry aromas jump from the glass alongside hints of watermelon and delicate floral notes.
The palate is crisp, refreshing, and incredibly easy to drink. Bright red berry flavors lead the way with touches of citrus and a subtle minerality that keeps everything balanced and lively. There’s a freshness here that makes you immediately want another sip.
What I really enjoy about this rosé is that it manages to be refreshing while still having personality.
What I’d Pair It With
This is the kind of rosé that belongs on the porch, by the grill, or at the beach.
Perfect pairings include:
Grilled shrimp
Summer salads
Charcuterie boards
Prosciutto and melon
Grilled chicken
Tuna poke
Goat cheese
Simply sipping it outside with friends
Honestly, this is the style of rosé that reminds you wine doesn’t have to be complicated to be memorable.
Sometimes all you need is a warm day, a chilled bottle, and good conversation.
About the Winery
Elena Walch is one of the benchmark producers of Alto Adige, located in Italy’s northernmost wine region near the Austrian border. The winery is known for combining tradition with innovation while focusing heavily on sustainability and expressing the unique alpine terroir of the region.
What makes the story even more interesting is that Elena Walch herself came from an architecture background before marrying into a wine family and eventually transforming the winery into one of Italy’s most respected estates. Today, the winery is run alongside her daughters Julia and Karoline Walch, continuing the family’s commitment to quality winemaking.
Alto Adige’s dramatic mountain landscapes, cool nights, and sunny days help create wines with vibrant acidity, freshness, and purity — qualities that absolutely shine in this rosé.
If we hadn’t sold the restaurant, Memorial Day weekend would look very different for me right now.
I’d be checking reservations.
Reviewing staffing schedules.
Making sure the wine fridge was stocked.
Watching weather reports like they were life-or-death predictions.
And mentally preparing myself for the unofficial kickoff to summer at the Jersey Shore.
Instead, this Memorial Day feels quieter.
And honestly? A little emotional.
As summer approaches, I find myself thinking a lot about the eight years in the restaurant business with Kitchen 330 & Trio North Wildwood. People often think owning a restaurant is about the food. And yes, food matters. Wine matters. Hospitality matters.
But what I miss most are the people.
I miss my staff — many of whom became family over those eight years. In restaurants, you go through everything together. Long nights. Crazy weekends. Equipment breaking at the worst possible time. Last-minute reservations. Packed holiday weekends. Exhaustion. Laughter. The “we survived another Saturday night” feeling.
There’s a bond that forms in restaurants that’s hard to explain unless you’ve lived it.
And then there were the customers.
Some started as guests and slowly became part of our lives. I watched children grow up over those years. I watched couples celebrate anniversaries, birthdays, engagements, retirements. Some people came every single summer. Others sat at the bar and talked wine with me for hours.
Those are the moments I miss.
I miss sharing wine with people who were excited to learn something new. I miss introducing someone to a grape they had never heard of and watching their face light up when they realized they loved it. I miss conversations about life over a glass of wine. The restaurant was never just about serving dinner. It was about connection.
That part of hospitality is beautiful.
But there are parts of the industry I don’t miss at all.
And lately, as a customer, I’ve become increasingly disillusioned with where the restaurant industry is heading.
Let’s start with the credit card fees.
We’ve become a cashless society. Most people pay with a card for almost everything they do. Restaurants know this. Customers know this. Yet now many restaurants are adding an extra 3% fee to use a credit card.
I’m sorry, but I believe that’s simply part of the cost of doing business.
Businesses incur fees for accepting cards — just like they incur utility bills, insurance costs, and rent. That’s part of operating a restaurant. It should not become another surprise charge added to the customer’s check at the end of the meal.
And what many customers don’t even realize is that they’re often paying tax on that extra fee, too.
Go out to dinner once or twice a week and suddenly those “small” fees aren’t so small anymore.
Yes, food costs have skyrocketed. Gas prices impact everything from deliveries to utilities. Inflation has affected every corner of the restaurant industry. I understand all of that because I lived it.
But if restaurants need to offset those costs, build them into the menu pricing. Don’t nickel-and-dime customers with added fees after the fact.
Then there’s the food itself.
This is the part that genuinely makes me sad.
At our restaurant, everything was made from scratch. And I mean everything. Did it make life harder? Absolutely. Did it require more skilled labor, more prep time, and more stress? Without question.
But there was pride in it.
Today, I see more and more restaurants relying heavily on pre-made and pre-cooked products from large food distributors like Sysco and US Foods. The push is toward convenience: products that arrive already prepared, where all the kitchen has to do is heat, plate, and serve.
And little by little, the art of the executive chef is disappearing.
Many restaurants today don’t even employ executive chefs anymore. Instead, they rely on line cooks to assemble pre-prepared products. That’s not a criticism of the cooks themselves, many are working incredibly hard under difficult conditions. But structurally, the industry has changed.
The open-kitchen concept we had at Trio showed people what went into their meals. Guests could see the cooking, the timing, the teamwork, the pressure, the care. Even if not every restaurant wants an open kitchen, there was something honest about it.
Now, too often, food feels manufactured instead of crafted.
And while we’re talking about restaurant structure, there’s another issue that never sat right with me: the imbalance between front-of-house and back-of-house pay.
Servers and bartenders absolutely work hard. I know because I worked the floor myself. Great service matters tremendously.
But the kitchen works just as hard.
The back-of-house staff are sweating through brutal summer nights, standing over hot grills and fryers, working nonstop to make sure every plate goes out correctly. Without them, there is no restaurant experience to begin with.
Yet there’s often an enormous income disparity between front and back of house.
The reality is this: if the kitchen doesn’t produce good food, the front of the house doesn’t receive the tips they depend on.
It takes both sides working together.
Always.
Maybe that’s why I’ve become more selective about where I dine now. I’m looking for places that still care. Places where you can feel pride in the food coming out of the kitchen. Places where hospitality still feels genuine instead of transactional.
Because, despite everything, I still love restaurants.
I love what they can be.
I love the conversations they create.
I love the memories made around a table.
I love the way wine and food bring people together.
And every Memorial Day, when the shore towns start waking up for summer again, a part of me will probably always miss being in the middle of it all.
Last May I was up in the Finger Lakes and had a wonderful tasting at Weis Vineyards and come home with about a case of wine. One of those bottles was the 2021 Weis Cabernet Franc. I opened it the other night to pair with a steak dinner, and boy was it a pairing!
Let me paint the picture. On the plate were grilled teres major, mashed potatoes, creamed spinach made from fresh spinach from the garden, and homemade popovers. And this Cabernet Franc fit right into that dinner like it belonged there all along.
The wine poured a beautiful garnet color into the glass. The aromas were just what I expected: notes of cherry and just a hint of cranberry. On the palate, the wine showed lovely expressions of raspberry and cherry with a soft spice note that lingered gently on the finish. I love that spice ending!
What I really enjoyed about this wine was its balance. It had enough freshness and acidity to keep things lively at the table, but enough softness to make it incredibly easy to drink. Cabernet Franc can sometimes lean a little too herbal or too aggressive, depending on where it’s grown, but this one found a really nice middle ground. It was food friendly, approachable, and honestly just delicious. That is what I like about New York Cabernet Franc.
And let’s talk value for a second. Retailing around $30, this is one of those wines that delivers far above its price point. It feels special without requiring a special occasion. I would say a good weekend wine.
Weis Vineyards is founded by Hans Peter Weis and his wife Ashlee, the winery beautifully blends German winemaking tradition with Finger Lakes terroir. Hans Peter grew up in Zell Mosel, Germany, working in his family’s winery before eventually making his way to New York. After spending time in California, he found himself drawn to the Finger Lakes because of its cool climate and mineral-driven soils, which reminded him of home.
Cabernet Franc thrives in cooler climates, and the Finger Lakes and New York in general has quietly become one of the best places in the United States for the grape.
This bottle reminded me why I love Cabernet Franc so much. It’s versatile, food friendly, and when done right, it has this wonderful way of feeling both rustic and refined at the same time.
And honestly? With grilled steak, garden spinach, homemade popovers, and a glass of Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc on the table, it was a pretty great dinner.
