Wine of the Week: Breaux Vineyards 2020 Marquis de Lafayette

 A Toast to Virginia Wine Month

I didn't even realize it was Virginia Wine Month when we opened a bottle of Breaux Vineyards 2020 Marquis de Lafayette. Talk about perfect timing! October is Virginia Wine Month, a celebration of the wineries, vineyards, and people who have helped put Virginia on the wine map.

My introduction to Virginia wine goes back to a TasteCamp trip that seems like yesterday, but when I stop and think about it, it was at least ten years ago. Where does the time go?

TasteCamp was an opportunity for wine writers and bloggers to explore emerging wine regions, meet winemakers, walk through vineyards, and experience the wines firsthand. It was during that trip that I discovered just how much Virginia had to offer.

I've been a big fan of Virginia wines ever since. Even took my husband there two years ago for our anniversary to turn him onto Virginia Wines.

Breaux Vineyards is a family-owned winery with a beautiful setting between the Blue Ridge and Short Hill Mountains in Purcellville, Virginia, located in Loudoun County. (and dog friendly, but dogs must stay outside)

The story began in 1994 when the Breaux family purchased a 404-acre property that already had a small vineyard planted in 1985. What started as a hobby of making wine for family and friends grew into something much bigger. Today, it is one of the oldest, largest and most acclaimed wineries in Northern Virginia.

In April 1997, Breaux Vineyards officially opened its doors to the public.

Today, the estate has approximately 104 acres of vineyards planted with a diverse collection of grape varieties. From Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot, Nebbiolo, Viognier, and more, Breaux has embraced the possibilities of Virginia's growing conditions.

The Wine: 2020 Marquis de Lafayette

This was a purchase from our anniversary trip to Breaux. Marquis de Lafayette is a Cabernet Franc-based wine with some Petit Verdot and Merlot blended in. I couldn't find the exact percentages, but the wine does spend 17 months in French oak barrels.

On the nose: Tobacco and worn leather were the first aromas that caught my attention. There was a touch of  earthiness to it.  The savory notes were complemented by dark fruit and a subtle suggestion of spice.

On the palate: Lots of beautiful black fruit! Think blackberry, black cherry, and a touch of black plum. The fruit was rich and expressive without being overwhelming. The tobacco and leather notes carried through from the nose, adding complexity and giving the wine a slightly rustic, Old World character.

The tannins felt nicely integrated, providing structure without overpowering the fruit. There was a pleasant balance between the dark fruit and savory characteristics, with a lingering finish that left me wanting another sip.

What Would I Pair With It?

This is a wine that belongs at the dinner table.

With its dark fruit, savory notes, and balanced structure, I can think of quite a few dishes that would make wonderful companions.

A grilled ribeye or filet mignon would be an obvious choice. The wine's tannins and fruit would complement the richness of the beef.

But I'd also reach for this bottle with herb-roasted lamb, pork tenderloin with a mushroom sauce, or even a hearty beef stew.

And since we're in October, how about a wild mushroom risotto? Those earthy flavors would be wonderful alongside the tobacco and leather characteristics of the wine.

For something simple, a board of aged cheddar, Gouda, and a little charcuterie would work beautifully.

October Is Virginia Wine Month

What better time to explore Virginia wine than October?

Virginia Wine Month celebrates the state's wine industry during one of the most exciting times of the year: harvest.

While Virginia has a long history of grape growing, its modern wine industry has developed into a diverse community of wineries producing everything from sparkling wines and crisp Viognier to elegant Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Bordeaux-style blends.

And Virginia has something else going for it: beautiful wine country.

Rolling hills, mountain views, historic towns, and welcoming tasting rooms make it a wonderful destination for a wine getaway.

If you've never explored Virginia wine country, put it on your list.

You don't have to travel to California or France to discover interesting wines. Sometimes they're being made just a few states away.

 

Love Me Some Cabernet Franc

Sunday was Cabernet Franc Day. A day when we celebrated Cabernet Franc. It was created by Lori Budd of Dracaena Wines for her love of Cabernet Franc. Why did she pick December 4th?

Well, December 4th is the anniversary of Cardinal Richelieu’s death. Who is Cardinal Richelieu? Besides being the inventor of the table knife (yup), Cardinal Richelieu is responsible for bringing cuttings of Cabernet Franc from the Libournais region in Bordeaux to the Loire Valley.

Lori does such a great job in the promotion of this grape/wine. The Cabernet Franc grape is used for blending, but it is so good on its own. It is more than a blending grape.

I spent all last week drinking Cabernet Franc. Here are two California Cabernet Francs that are new to me.

Blue Victorian Cabernet Franc 2018 - Located in the Suisun Valley, Blue Victorian is a special project and second winery of the Frank and Liz Vezer of Vezer Family Vineyard. Blue Victorian produces a Cabernet Franc that is soft and luscious with lots of black cherry fruit.

Tessier Cabernet Franc 2019 - Kristie, a scientist turned winemaker, is following her appreciation of Burgundian and Loire Valley wines in producing small lots of wines. Annual production is about 1400 cases and includes Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Grenache, Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Riesling, Syrah and Mourvedre.

Kristie’s 2019 Cabernet Franc is sourced from the El Dorado wine region. Aromas of bright red raspberry and violets escaped from the glass. The wine was full of black cherry, pine, hints of forest floor. I turned on the suggested music paring on Spotify - Laura Veirs "Drink Deep." As I sat sipping my wine, listening to the music, the wine got softer and began to all blend harmoniously together.

The Faces of Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc

Do you ever wonder what is behind a bottle of wine? You have the label and the wine, but how about the face?

Last month I attended the Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition Cabernet Franc tasting hosted at Milea Winery. The Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc Coalition was founded in 2016 by a group of Hudson Valley winery owners, grape growers, winemakers and industry supporters committed to establishing Cabernet Franc as the signature grape of the Hudson Valley.

At the event were the seven Legacy members showcasing their Cabernet Franc along with their winemakers.

• Benmarl Winery
• Fjord Vineyards
• Quartz Rock Vineyard (Formerly Glorie Farm Winery)
• Milea Estate Vineyard
• Millbrook Vineyards & Winery
• Robibero Winery
• Whitecliff Vineyard

What you need to know about Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc:

1. Cabernet Franc is the parent to Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
2. Cabernet Franc is a very winter-hardy red vinifera grape and grows well in the Hudson Valley
3. Cabernet Franc wines grown and produced in the Hudson Valley are well rounded with low tannins and bring flavors of berries, cranberries, light cherries and a hint of black pepper to the palate.
4. Cabernet Franc wines grown and produced in the Hudson Valley have aging potential. Lighter styles produced will age 3 to 5 years, while the more serious, oak-aged will age up to 10 years.

Let’s meet the faces of Hudson Valley Cabernet Franc along with the past, current and future vintages.

Kristof Brown & Tiffany Robibero - Robibero Winery

Kristof said "the 2020 is the best vintage of Cabernet Franc ever." So if there was anything positive about the year in Covid it was it produced a fantastic 2020 Cabernet Franc vintage in the Hudson Valley. Robibero’s 2020 will be released in three years. It’s aging in 2-year-old oak. Silky tannins, deep nose, cherry, raspberry and red currant.

2019 Robibero Winery Cabernet Franc produced from a small amount of fruit due to the rains at the end of 2018. The vines sucked up that water and there was an early deep freeze and the trunks exploded. All you did was hear the vines pop in the vineyard. Kristof had to cut off the trunks and grow them back. You might want to look at this being a reserve. The fruit was really ripe at 25 brix and put it in new oak. Notes of Coffee, toasty oak, nice structure and acid, very tannic. The acid just pops. This wine will be released in 2023. A very limited quantity wine with just 2 barrels being produced.

2018 Robibero Winery Cabernet Franc - grown in clay soil. Intense deep Cabernet Franc. Silky and smooth.

2021 Robibero Winery Cabernet Franc - Nice fruit, aged in neutral oak and fermented in native yeast. This wine had a nice hint of pepper on the finish.

Brad Martz - Whitecliff Vineyard

2016 Whitecliff Vineyard Estate (Home Vineyard) 20-year-old vines. Notes of sour cherry, raspberry, vanilla and baking spices on the finish.

2020 Whitecliff Vineyard - current release vines planted at the Olana Vineyard in 2015 & 2016. First leaf was 2017. 16 months in 1-3 yr oak Hungarian. Nice spice on it with a nice acid profile, notes of plum and cherry.

2021 Whitecliff Vineyard - bottle sample Clone 327 from the Olana vineyard. Aged in new French 500 liter puncheon. Young. Softer, nice aromas.

Matt Spaccarelli & Casey Erdmann - Fjord Vineyard

Total acreage manage 40 acres.

2021 Fjord Vineyard Rose of Cabernet Franc Clone 332 big cluster big berry clone and the entire vineyard is Rose production. Less skin-to-juice ratio

2020 Fjord Vineyard Cabernet Franc Clone 327 and it’s on a steep terrace. Spontanious fermentation. High fruit notes to it

2021 Fjord Vineyard Cabernet Franc- Matt said this was a wierd vintage, wet and hot. Pressed everything into tank. bottled late March. Notes of white pepper, fresh tobacco, savory notes and maraschino cherry that pops on finish.. Serve slightly chilled.

Bruce Tripp - Milea Estate Vineyard

2021 Milea Estate Cabernet Franc(barrel sample) - Estate fruit. Beautiful, soft nice nuances of balanced red and black fruit.

2020 Milea Estate Cabernet Franc - hints of black plum, raspberries, nice acidity and a short pepper spice on the finish.

Millbrook Vineyard & Winery

2020 Millbrook Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Franc spent 15 months in French oak 2-3 time use. The wine is nice, soft, red and black berry fruit, soft black pepper spice and nice tannins.

2021 Millbrook Vineyard & Winery Cabernet Franc (barrel sample), soft and tannic only 18 barrels produced. Will taste good when released.

Matt Spaccarelli & Laura - Benmarl Winery

2019 Benmarl Cabernet Franc aged 11 months I 1 - 2 year oak puncheons. The oak puncheons allow slower integration of oak and oxygen. Notes of cherry, cassis, tobacco leaf, hint of cedar and black pepper on finish. My notes say awesome.

2020 Benmarl Cabernet Franc - This vintage faced some deer pressure and a late frost in May. They only got 3/4 ton of fruit and made 55 cases. It was aged for 17 months and will be released early summer or fall. Notes of raspberry, cranberry and a hint of spice.

Megan Lamb - Quartz Rock Vineyard

2019 Cabernet Franc is made under the Glorie Farm Winery label. It was drinking very nicely. Full bodied, smooth, nice red fruit with a kiss of black pepper on the finish.

2020 Quartz Rock Vineyard Cabernet Franc is Megan’s first Cabernet Franc vintage. A tad light in color, with notes of cranberry, black currant, hint of fig and black cherry.

Winephabet Street V is for Villány

Welcome to Winephabet Street Season 2 Episode 22 V is for Villany.

Winephabet Street is a monthly series where Lori Budd of Exploring the Wine Glass and I work our way through the alphabet exploring wine and wine regions one letter at a time. The show is live on the third Monday at 8pm and is free, but you must register to attend. Put it on your calendar, pour yourself a glass of wine, and hang out with us.

In this episode, we are discussing the Villany region of Hungary. I love talking about anything Hungarian as my grandfather is from Budapest and his Grandparents had vineyards in the Tapolca region in Hungary. Although Tapolca is a three-hour drive Villany, I felt close to my roots during this episode.

The Villany region of Hungary is focused on red grapes. It is known for its big reds. Located close to the Croatian border, Villany PDO is the southernmost wine region in Hungary. It has a sub-Mediterranean climate that has very warm summers and mild winters. Spring comes early which allows for a long growing season which many red varieties need. Cabernet Franc is Villany’s signature grape.

We are joined in this episode by Andras Horkay, dipWSET, Director, Central European Wine Institute; Andrea Gere, Attila Gere Winery, and Erhard Heumann, Heumann Winery. I hope you enjoy the episode!

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They Have Grapes in Colorado

I have skied all over Colorado. Vail, Breckenridge, Steamboat Springs but I never knew they grew grapes in Colorado. I do remember a trip to Colorado Springs for a conference and noted how different the climate was there than in Denver. Extremely different, like desert different. 

Colorado has been growing grapes since 1890. The first modern Colorado winery, Ivancie Winery opened in 1968. His winemaker was the famous Warren Winiarski who was hired away from Mondavi Vineyards in California. (He then returned to California and founded Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars) Since then, there has been a large growth in the 1970s and again in the 1990s.

The vineyards sit 4500 feet to over 7000 above sea level. This makes them the highest vineyards in North America. The grape-growing regions sit on the west side as the east faces the extreme weather you think of when you think of Colorado. There are two designated AVA’s:

• The Grand Valley AVA sits along the Colorado River forty miles east of Utah.
• The West Elks AVA follows the North Fork of the Gunnison River through Delta County on the western slope of Colorado. The West Elks AVA has the highest elevation at 7000 feet above sea level.

There are other areas in Colorado that grow grapes but aren’t designated AVA’s by the TTB. They are:

• McElmo Canyon and Montezuma County
• Surface Creek or South Grand Mesa
• Fremont County
• Olathe and Montrose Counties
• The Front Range

The growing season lasts approximately 180 days of warm days and cool nights with breezes that on cool days warm the vines and on hot days cool the vines. This works great at preserving the acidity in the grapes.

Curious about what they grow in Colorado? In the vineyards, there are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris to name a few.

Buckel Family Wines

I had the opportunity to taste Buckel Family Wines Cabernet Franc for Cabernet Franc Day on December 4th. It was the first time I have tasted a wine grown and made in Colorado. Impressed I was.

Buckel Family wines is a small family-owned winery in Gunnison, Colorado. They source their grapes from the vineyards on the Western Slopes of Colorado.

Their mission “ To fulfill the appetite of the adventurous wine drinker with wine that expresses the absolute best of the land, climate and growers in Colorado.”

Joe Buckel, co-founder and winemaker gained his experience working as an enologist at Flowers Vineyard and Winery as well as BR Cohn Winery before becoming the winemaker at Sutcliffe Vineyards in Cortez Colorado then opening his own winery. Hi partner Shamai is a nutritionist who shares her knowledge through pairing their wines with good home-cooked meals.

They produce Cabernet Franc, Cinsault, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pet Nat, Rose, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc all with 100% Colorado grapes.

2018 Buckel Family Wines Cabernet Franc - unfiltered and unfined. The wine show notes of red plum, black cherry with chewy tannins and a green peppercorn spice that explodes in your mouth on the finish.

Cabernet Franc Misunderstood: Get To Know It December 4!

Cabernet Franc so misunderstood. Once only used as a blending grape doesn’t get much fan fare. In reality it really is the Big Daddy of all grapes!

Cabernet Franc is the father of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Carmenere. Yes he got around during his time! It is one of the blending grapes in Bordeaux wine yet it wasn’t until recently that it’s been brought to the forefront as a stand alone wine.

My Cabernet Franc AHA Moment

When I began on my wine journey I didn’t know much about Cabernet Franc. I tasted it at Whitecliff Vineyards in Gardiner, New York and was wowed! It is during this time of year as Cabernet Franc day is celebrated that I reflect back on the grape and my Aha moment with it.

For me it was the strawberry, black raspberry, plum and dark fruit that finished with an explosion of black pepper. I was in love but didn’t realize the grape was an under-dog. The more wine tasting the more I realized that the grape is used in some percentage in other red blends all around, not just in New York but all over. As you get to know Cabernet Franc, you can pick it out of the blend. It is so much more than a blending grape.

Make sure you taste Cabernet Franc wines produced in different parts of the world. Taste and aroma will vary, some more fruity, some more minerally and some more herbaceous all based on the terroir of the region.

Cabernet Franc Pairing

Cabernet Franc pairs with so much food. Try it with your burger, roasted pork, grilled pork chop, pork belly, meatballs, turkey, lamb, venison, cheese, lentils, beans and more. Such a food friendly wine!

Cabernet Franc Day - December 4

This Friday is Cabernet Franc Day, the day you have no excuse not to try a wine made with the Big Daddy of grapes. Cabernet Franc Day was started by Lori & Michael Budd of Dracaena Wines to celebrate this underdog of grapes.

Every year Lori works her butt off to put together a great program featuring Cabernet Franc and the people that produce the wines. Join us on Twitter and follow the hashtag #CabFrancDay. The conversation begins at 8pm ET / 5pm PT. You can interact with Cabernet Franc lovers and winemakers from all over the world.

Celebrate Spring & Friendship with Volage Crémant de Loire Rosé

Spring is a time of re-birth and rejuvenation. A time to celebrate longer days and nicer weather, family and friendship. Although we should celebrate everyday, we to often think of sparkling wine for a special occasion. We should never hold back. That special occasion might never come. We need to celebrate the every day, the nice weather, the fresh air that when inhaled puts a smile on your face, the friendships both new and old.

About Volage

Volage is a very special sparkling wine. It’s a Crémant de Loire Rosé, a sparkling wine made with 100% old vine Cabernet Franc using the methode traditionelle. It is the creation of Francois-Xavier Chaillou who himself was an executive at high-end wine producers like Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Veuve Clicquot to name a few. His passion was for rare and prized Rosé Champagnes. His dream which he is successful at was to create a great quality affordable Sparkling Rosé wine outside the famous region of Champagne. He chose the Loire Valley for his project and produced it at Domaine du Landreau in Val du Layon.

Celebrating Friendship

On the label of Volage is a quote “quotidie celebrare” in Latin, meaning “celebrate daily,” and we must celebrate daily because we never know when life can change. I brought Volage with me to visit a special friend from childhood. We grew up in the same neighborhood and now live on different “Capes,” she, Cape Cod, me Cape May. We hadn’t seen each other in a few years and I knew I wanted to visit before I got tied up in the restaurant. One phone call and that is all it took for that life change and for me and Volage to make the road trip. She had no idea I was bringing bubbles and I had no idea she was craving pink bubbles and they are her favorite.

The Cabernet Franc for this Crémant was hand harvested and aged for 3 years on the lees. The aging is totally reflected in the wonderful taste and aromas of the wine. Beautiful light salmon in color the hint of breadiness on the nose follows through on the palate. Strawberry fields dance throught-out this wine with a hint of citrus and fresh minerality.

I served the Crémant with brunch of Créme Brulée French Toast. Yes, we Frenched out! The pairing was wonderful as is our friendship.

As my girlfriend said” All too often Sparkling Rosés don’t have a good flavor profile. This one is wonderful and a keeper.” The only thing wrong about this weekend was we didn’t have a second bottle to open!

Volage Crémant de Loire Rosé retails from $29.99. It’s fun, bright and refreshing. Don’t wait to begin to celebrate. Celebrate every day!

World of Cabernet Franc

My aha moment with Cabernet Franc happened very early when I really didn’t know much about the grape. It was straight up, not blended and with a great black pepper zing on the finish that got me hooked! I later learned that Cabernet Franc was used predominately as a blending grape and wondered why, it was great on it’s own. My friend Lori Budd of Dracaena Wines must have thought the same thing because she created Cabernet Franc day on December 4.

Why December 4th you may ask? What does that date hold special? It is said that Cabernet Franc was established in the Libournais region of southwest France in the 17th century when Cardinal Richelieu brough in the cuttings of the vine to the Loire Valley. Cardinal Richelieu passed away on December 4th. On December 4th we celebrate his life and the life of the grape he gave life to.

Lori put a lot of work into Cabernet Franc Day and the climax of the day is spent on twitter from 8pm to 10pm. From 8 to 9 it’s a general discussion on Cabernet Franc and from 9 to 10pm we taste Cabernet Franc wines from around the world.

I was very fortunate to be able to taste Cabernet Franc from Oregon, Western New York and France. Although the same grape, similar tasting profile, yet different.

New York Cabernet Franc

Both New York Wineries I tasted from are on the Niagara Escarpment. Black Willow Winery is a family owned winery located in Burt, New York on the Niagara Wine Trail. Arrowhead Spring Vineyards is located on the Niagara Escarpment in Lockport, New York.

Black Willow Winery Cabernet Franc SRP $19.99 - Unfortunately I couldn’t find a vintage date on this wine. I admit sometime I can overlook things, but I couldn’t find one on the bottle or on their website. The wine had a bit candied black cherry aroma along with some raspberry jam and a touch of black pepper. The wine was a little thin in texture with flavors of blackberry, raspberry,a hint of earth and smoke. As the wine opens there is a soft hint of black pepper spice on the finish. The wine did go well with a chocolate peanut butter brownie as the brownie brought out the berry in the wine.

Arrowhead Springs Vineyard 2015 Cabernet Franc $24.95 - This Cabernet Franc was aged for 24 months in oak. There was a touch of vegetal notes on the nose with some dried herbs, and black fruit. The palate had a hit of green pepper with black cherry, red raspberry and a hint of spice on the finish.

Oregon Cabernet Franc

Leah Jorgensen calls herself the “Pirate Princess and Winemaker at Leah Jorgensen Cellars. She has been in the industry for close to 20 years. She got her start managing a wine shop in Washington DC and went out to Oregon Pinot Camp in 2004 and never looked back. Cabernet Franc was the first wine she made and her signature wine. She provide me three Cabernet Franc’s to taste with one being a white Cab Franc and the first of it’s kind that I have tasted.

Leah Jorgensen Cellars 2017 Cabernet Franc SRP $25 - This wine was aged in neutral French oak barrels with some also in stainless steel. Lots of complex aromas coming from this wine. Cocoa, ripe cherry, blackberries, vanilla, dark chocolate, eucalyptus and hints of earth. The palate saw flavors of black cherries and black currant with a hint of clove and black pepper on the finish

Leah Jorgensen Cellars 2015 “Clos Rogue Valley” Reserve Cabernet Franc SRP$50 - This wine was aged in new French oak barrels and aged for 15 months. Nice aromas of red berry, violet, smoke and cigar box leads to a palate of bright raspberry, plum, black currant and finishes with hints of baking spice. This went really well with hanger steak and truffle potatoes.

Leah Jorgensen Cellars 2017 Blanc de Cabernet SRP $30 - This was the first time I was tasting a white Cabernet Franc. Leah was the first winery outside the Loire Valley to produce a still white wine from Cabernet Franc grapes. The grapes were pressed just after picking and transferred to acacia barrels for fermentation and aging sur-lie. Complex aromas of white flowers, jasmine, touch of minerality and some vegetal notes leads to a palate full of lemon curd, apricot and a touch of green apple. Leah says you can age this wine for up to 10 years. We found the wine went very well with sushi.

Bordeaux, France

Paradise Rescued is located in Cardan, France and is certified Organic by ECOCERT. Founded by David Stannard after he had purchased a vacation home in Cardan in 1992. Years later from a threat of property development, he purchased the surrounding vineyard and began operations in 2010.

Paradise Rescued B1ockOne 2010 Cabernet Franc - This Cabernet Franc was aged in one year old oak barrels for eight months. A nose of dark cherry, green peppercorn and a hint of smoke lead to a palate of dark cherry, red plum, green olive and nutmeg. It’s light on the palate and has a lingering finish of black peppercorn. As the wine opens it begins to show some tart cherry. The wine went very well with Comte and Gruyere cheese.

An Afternoon with Matt Spaccarelli at Benmarl Winery & Fjord Vineyards

Back in October I spent the afternoon with Matt Spaccarelli and his partner Casey Erdmann along with their two beautiful children Maggie and Leon. Our day began at Benmarl Winery where I have seen Matt grow as a winemaker, vineyard manager and person from the time his family purchased the winery to the site of Fjord Vineyards, which Matt and Casey began a few years ago, to the birth of their two children. Benmarl Winery joined the Shawangunk Wine Trail shortly after I did and that is when I met and got to know Matt. I’ve been able to watch not just the winery grow but the people behind it and it warms my heart.

Benmarl Winery

My afternoon began at Benmarl winery, home of the oldest vineyard in America, of course tasting some of the wines while I waited for Matt to arrive. I had to go with wines I hadn’t tasted because I am in love with their 2017 Seyval Blanc and could just sip on that all day. Matt does take me to the site of the Seyval and reveals to me his winemaking secret. Keep reading for that.

The first glass was their 2016 Sauvignon Blanc which was sourced from Long Island. It’s nice and refreshing with hints of citrus, limon, white grapefruit with a touch of salinity. Then I tasted their 2017 Stainless Steel Chardonnay which also comes in cans. I will be doing a special tasting this winter with their can vs bottle, but until then, what was in the glass was nice and crisp with soft acidity and hints of macintosh and melon. Then it was on to two of their reds while I was told Matt will be here any minute. The 2016 Cabernet Franc showed nice cherry and vanilla spice with my favorite black pepper on the finish. I had to taste their 2015 Baco Noir grown on their historic estate 60 year old vines. This wine had gone through wild fermentation and showed nice bing cherry hints of herbal and touch of smoke. Baco does age well so it will be interesting to see how this one ages.

It was a beautiful fall day and when Matt arrived I got to present him, his brother Michael who is the winery General Manager and winemaker Laura with some awards. I was so honored and proud to present these awards from the Hudson Valley Wine & Spirits Competition where they kicked ass! Winery of the Year, Best in Show and Best Hudson Valley Wine made with Hudson Valley fruit. Laura, a UC Davis graduate is a new addition to the winery and has some great experience. Having Laura around allows Matt to focus more on vineyard management. They are building a great team and doing some great winemaking!

After the picture for the awards which happens to be at my favorite spot at the winery with the best view of the valley, Matt took me to a part of the vineyard I didn’t know existed. It’s actually hidden, so I called it the back 5. Three years ago he planted some Cabernet Franc clone 214 and 327 on Riparia and Clone 327 on SO4 rootstock. Two years ago they added some Lemberger and Saperavi which is actually a grape native to the country of Georgia along with Traminette and Ottonel. Currently he is looking to change the trellis system to Scott Henry to try to get a little more fruit out of the small crop. They have also been having some critter issues which comes along with the territory. You know, one bird tell the other they found new berries to pick. This year there will hopefully be a nice Cabernet Franc crop from the back 5.

On our walk through the production area of the winery I noticed some kegs. I know keg wine is becoming a thing. I’ve seen it in some bars (not that I get out much). I asked Matt about it. These kegs are “one way kegs” I think back to my college days and a “beer ball.” They get sold to restaurants, and they don’t have to worry about picking up the keg. They are plastic and cost about $15. When the keg runs dry, they just poke a hole in it and put it out with their recyclables. It keeps the wine fresh and wine by the glass doesn’t have to worry about a bottle being open for 4 or so days.

Fjord Vineyards

Now we are off to Fjord Vineyards and Casey and the kids have joined us. Matt and Casey have been making wine under the Fjord label for a couple of years now. Their first wine I tasted was a killer Albarino grown in Marlboro NY on the property of Howard Baker. Yes, I couldn’t believe Albarino was grown in the Hudson Valley. Howard is Matt’s mentor and it all began with the borrowing of a tractor. You just never know where things lead, and Howard was a big influence on helping Matt get started on his own and the creation of Fjord Vineyards.

Fjord is just down the road from Benmarl in Marlboro, NY. There is no sign, just a dirt driveway between two small stone pillars. If I didn’t have Matt next to me, I would have driven right by. As you drive down this dirt driveway there are apple orchards on each side filled with beautiful Red Delicious apples and then the area opens up and there is a building in the middle of construction and a vineyard. It was magical.

The building being built will house Fjord’s tasting room and upstairs will be a private residence. The Cabernet Franc and Seyval Blanc were planted on the property in 2006 and shortly after that Matt began to manage the property. This is the block of Seyval Blanc that went into Benmarl’s Seyval Blanc that I think is stellar! I felt this was the perfect time to talk to Matt about the Seyval Blanc and what he changed in his vineyard management and winemaking to create this outstanding wine. I will own up and say I wasn’t a Seyval Blanc fan. I have tasted wines made at various Hudson Valley wineries and there was always a strange unique aroma and taste that I just didn’t care for. Matt found the secret “When Seyval gets ripe the flavors aren’t good. They are super ripe melon, wet dog and other off notes,” explains Matt “The grapes taste great but the resulting wine not so much.” He changed his protocol on when he picks the grapes and begins to pick them between 17 and 18 brix when it’s really young, crisp, clean and high acidity. There is no contact with the lees, it’s racked twice then filtered and bottled. He is striving for an Alsatian style wine. If you have the chance to pick up a bottle, do so and let me know your thoughts.

2018 was such a wet year there was a lot of disease pressure and as we walked through the vineyard Matt pointed out some disease pressure. Matt explained to me how the secondary shoots were so susceptible to downey mildew late in the season. The primary leaves were still ripening but the leaves showed a potassium deficiency. You can see how the color of the leaves change with the potassium deficiency. Just one of the many things you have to worry about in the vineyard.

You might be wondering when the tasting room will open. No date has been set, but it will most likely be by appointment only.

All About Family

You don’t know what’s behind a winery, the stories, the family and the problems. There were tough times in the beginning as the family faced divorce and with a family business that can make or break it. Benmarl came out with more family members involved like Michael who is now the General Manager. Matt’s role as winemaker and vineyard manager has evolved to launching his own brand and doing some consulting. It’s great to see the young new generation take hold of the wine business and it’s not easy especially with a young family.

If you ever follow Fjord Vineyards on Instagram you see picture of their kids and how they are involving them with the business. Matt tells me how his home is just next to Benmarl and when Maggie is giving Casey a hard time she calls Matt and sends Maggie to hang with Matt at the winery. Maggie grabs the dog and walks through the “Candy Cane Forest” to her dad waiting at the end of the path. (don’t worry, both parents watch her as she strolls through the forest.) I commented on the pictures that Matt and Casey capture of the kids moments in the winery and Matt tells me it’s usually when he’s telling at them not to do something. The kids are young, but it’s great to ge, because you hope you are creating a legacy for them to follow in.

The Apple Orchard

The apple orchard on the property is managed by Fino Farms. There were a few trees that we were able to pick off as the pickers had already been through. The Mutsu trees were up for grabs, so we went and the kids helped me pick some apples to bring home with me. I had to climb the tree and hand Maggie and Leon the apples. They were the best apples I have had in a long time. I kept a few for myself and brought the rest to the restaurant where Gus made some fantastic warm apple pie for our customers. Don’t you worry, the customers at the restaurant got the story on the winery and the apples when they ordered the pie.

Apple factoid: There are 4 million bushels of apples produced in Ulster County and 2 million of those bushels are produced in the towns of Marlboro and Milton.