I’m a little late with Wine of the Week this week, but for good reason. I was traveling to visit a friend I grew up with, and then came home to babysit my three-year-old granddaughter. Sometimes life gets in the way of wine — although I’d argue wine fits rather nicely into life.
So here we are, a few days late, with a bottle definitely worth waiting for: Pierre Sparr 2022 Riesling from Alsace, France.
And if you haven’t explored the wines of Alsace, you really should. I think Alsace is one of France’s best-kept wine secrets.
A Little About Alsace
Tucked into northeastern France along the German border, Alsace sits between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine River. Its location tells you a lot about its wines.
The Vosges Mountains create a rain-shadow effect, helping make Alsace surprisingly dry and sunny. That combination of sunshine, relatively low rainfall and a patchwork of soils gives the region’s grapes plenty of opportunity to ripen while retaining the freshness and acidity that make its wines so distinctive.
And white grapes rule here.
Riesling is one of the stars, along with Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Muscat. Unlike the sweeter style some people automatically associate with Riesling, Alsace Riesling is traditionally known for being dry, crisp, mineral-driven and incredibly food friendly.
If you’re someone who says, “I don’t like Riesling because it’s too sweet,” Alsace is a very good place to challenge that assumption.
Pierre Sparr 2022 Riesling
This Riesling will put a smile on your face. It did for me.
The first thing that caught my attention was the aroma. There are soft petrol notes beginning to emerge, accompanied by a delicate touch of floral character.
And yes, I said petrol.
That aroma can sometimes scare people when they first hear it used to describe wine, but in Riesling it can be a fascinating part of the grape’s evolution. Riesling can develop those distinctive petrol or kerosene-like aromas as it ages. They can also show up in younger Rieslings depending on factors such as growing conditions — but that's a wine-geek rabbit hole for another day.
Here, the petrol note isn't overpowering. It's soft and integrated, adding another layer of complexity to the wine.
In the glass, the Pierre Sparr 2022 Riesling is bright, crisp and dry, with beautiful mineral notes running through it. Ripe nectarine brings a lovely juiciness to the palate, followed by subtle citrus on the finish.
Just delightful.
What to Pair With It
The beauty of dry Riesling is how easily it moves from the porch to the dinner table.
The bright acidity and mineral character of this wine make it a natural with oysters, clams, mussels and scallops. I'd also happily pour it alongside grilled shrimp or a simple piece of flaky white fish with lemon and herbs.
But don't stop at seafood.
Try it with roast chicken, pork tenderloin, sausages, schnitzel or a savory onion tart. Riesling's acidity is wonderful with richer foods because it helps refresh your palate between bites.
For a cheese board, think goat cheese, Gruyère or Comté.
A Wine for the Sunset
As much as I love finding the perfect food pairing, not every bottle needs dinner.
Some wines just need a chair, a glass and a sunset.
This is one of them.
The Pierre Sparr 2022 Riesling has that combination of brightness, minerality and ripe fruit that makes it refreshing enough for the last days of summer, while those developing aromas and extra complexity give it just enough depth for the cooler evenings ahead.
Pour yourself a glass, find a good spot to watch the sun go down and discover one of France’s wine regions that deserves a little more attention.
Alsace may be one of France’s best-kept secrets — but I’m perfectly happy letting you in on it.
