Grape of the Month: Chasselas - Switzerland’s Best-Kept Wine Secret

I just returned home from Switzerland, and I have a confession: before this trip, I didn't even realize Switzerland grew grapes. Chocolate, cheese, watches, mountains? Absolutely. Vineyards? Not on my radar.

There's a good reason for that. Only about 1% of Swiss wine ever leaves the country. The Swiss make it, the Swiss love it, and the Swiss drink nearly all of it themselves.

So for October's Grape of the Month, I want to introduce you to the grape I fell head over heels for on my trip - Chasselas (pronounced cha-suh-luhs). It's light, it's crisp, and it was the perfect partner for a simple salad on a sunny afternoon. I'd also pair it with seafood, cheese, fondue, raclette and Après-ski. It's  a hidden gem, and I found it.

Meet Chasselas

Chasselas is Switzerland's most widely planted white grape, with roughly 3,400 hectares planted throughout the country. You'll find it primarily in Vaud, Valais, Geneva and the Three Lakes region, particularly around Neuchâtel.

Depending on where you are, however, you might not see "Chasselas" on the bottle.

In Valais, it's called Fendant. In Germany, where the grape is also grown, you'll see it called Gutedel.

And in Vaud, the Swiss take terroir so seriously that the label may emphasize the village or vineyard—names such as Dézaley, Yvorne or Féchy—rather than Chasselas itself.

Where Did Chasselas Come From?

For years, there were all kinds of theories about Chasselas. Some suggested that it originated in Egypt or Burgundy.

Modern genetic research has changed that story.

Today, Chasselas is considered to have originated in the Lake Geneva region, most likely in the canton of Vaud. DNA research helped dismiss those older theories of Egyptian or Burgundian origins.

One interesting point about the grape's DNA: while genetic work has helped researchers establish its Swiss origins and relationships among many traditional Swiss varieties, Chasselas doesn't have one of those neat, famous parentage stories we can tell about grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon. Its exact parentage remains less clearly established.

Why Does Chasselas Love Switzerland?

Chasselas is an early-ripening, vigorous grape that can adapt to different soils and microclimates. More importantly, it has a wonderful ability to reflect where it's grown.

Think about the landscape: mountains, steep vineyard slopes, lakes, varying elevations and an incredible patchwork of soils and microclimates.

In Vaud, Lake Geneva helps moderate temperatures. In places such as Lavaux, vineyards climb dramatically above the lake on terraces, where vines benefit from sunlight and heat reflected from both the lake and the vineyard walls.

Head into Valais, and conditions change. The region is warm, dry and sunny, with dramatic differences between daytime and nighttime temperatures. The dry foehn winds also play a role in grape ripening and vineyard health.

What Does Chasselas Taste Like?

The Chasselas wines I tasted were exactly the kind of wines I love discovering when I travel: light, crisp, refreshing and incredibly easy to drink.

Typically, Chasselas is a dry, crisp, and light white wine with delicate aromas and flavors of apple, pear and citrus, often accompanied by white flowers and a distinctive mineral character. Acidity tends to be gentle rather than sharp or aggressive, but it's there and lets you know.

Depending on where it's grown, you can find everything from delicate floral expressions to wines with pronounced minerality and even flinty notes.

And don't assume Chasselas is always meant to be drunk young. While most are enjoyed within a few years, better examples can age beautifully, developing notes of honey, hazelnut, beeswax and dried fruit.

What's on the Table?

One afternoon in Switzerland, I enjoyed a Chasselas with my salad, and it was just perfect. The wine was light enough not to overwhelm the food, and its freshness made everything on the plate come alive. I also enjoyed it on the Glacier Express on the way to Zermatt. 

What else would I pair with it?

Seafood would be wonderful—especially delicate white fish, shrimp, or simply prepared shellfish. I'd also reach for Chasselas with salads, light chicken dishes and, of course, cheese.

And we're talking about Switzerland, so you know where this is heading.

Fondue. Raclette pair with Chasselas.

There's a reason this combination works. The wine's freshness and minerality provide a wonderful counterpoint to rich, creamy melted cheese. Chasselas is traditionally paired with fondue, raclette and Swiss lake fish such as perch and trout.

From Summer to Après-Ski

What I really love about Chasselas is that it doesn't seem tied to one season.

I could happily drink a chilled glass on the patio in July with a salad or seafood.

But I can just as easily picture myself sitting somewhere in the Swiss Alps after a day in the snow, enjoying a glass of Chasselas with cheese.

Maybe that's what makes this grape so appealing. It isn't trying to be the biggest, boldest or most aromatic wine at the table. It's subtle. It's fresh. It's mineral-driven. And it's incredibly food-friendly and likes to have a good time.

I went to Switzerland not realizing how much wine was being produced there, and I came home wondering why we don't see more of it.

Then I remembered: they're keeping about 99% of it for themselves.

After tasting Chasselas, I can't say I blame them.

So, if you ever see a bottle of Swiss Chasselas—or a bottle labeled Fendant—don't walk past it because you don't recognize the grape.

Pick it up.

Pour yourself a glass.

Grape of the Month: Garnacha — Summer Spunk Meets Fall

 

There’s that point toward the end of summer when you can feel the season beginning to shift.

The days are still warm, but the evenings are cooler and mornings have a nip. You might still be sitting outside with dinner, but suddenly you’re reaching for a sweater. The tomatoes and peppers are still coming out of the garden, but you’re starting to think about roasted vegetables, stews and everything that comes with fall.

That’s exactly why I chose Garnacha as my Grape of the Month.

Garnacha still has that summer spunk, but there’s a hint of fall in it. It’s juicy, fruity and still likes to have some fun, yet it has enough spice, warmth and body to carry us into cooler evenings.

And perhaps best of all, Garnacha is incredibly food-friendly.

Garnacha or Grenache?

First, let's clear up the name.

Garnacha and Grenache are the same grape.

In Spain, where the grape originated—most likely in Aragón—you’ll see Garnacha on the label. Cross the border into France and it becomes Grenache.

Today, it is grown throughout the world, including Australia, California, Washington State, South Africa and other warm, dry wine regions. But for me, its most fascinating expressions are still found in Spain and Southern France. And reasonably priced, I might add.

The grape loves sunshine. It is vigorous, drought-resistant and particularly comfortable in the dry, poor soils and warm Mediterranean climates found in these regions. In the Southern Rhône, Grenache Noir is especially well suited to dry, poor soils and produces fruity, round wines with plenty of volume on the palate.

That ability to thrive where other plants might struggle is part of Garnacha's magic.

Garnacha in Spain

Spain is Garnacha's homeland, and you'll find it planted in several regions, particularly across northeastern and central Spain.

Aragón is especially important to the story of Garnacha. Look for wines from areas such as Campo de Borja, Calatayud and Cariñena, where warm days, old vines and challenging growing conditions can produce deeply flavored wines.

Then there is Priorat, where Garnacha—often alongside Cariñena—takes on a completely different personality.

Priorat's famous llicorella soils, made up largely of fractured slate, force the vines to work hard. The roots search through cracks for water and nutrients, and yields can be tiny. What ends up in the glass can be concentrated, mineral-driven and powerful, while still retaining Garnacha's beautiful fruit.

Depending on where it is grown and how it is made, Spanish Garnacha can range from fresh and juicy to seriously complex and age-worthy.

You'll often find flavors and aromas of:

• Strawberry
• Raspberry
• Cherry
• Red plum
• Dried herbs
• White and black pepper
• Licorice
• Warm baking spices

With older vines and more concentrated styles, you may find darker fruit, earth, dried herbs and savory notes.

That's what I love about Garnacha. It can be easygoing and fun without being simple.

Cross the Border and It Becomes Grenache

Head into France and Garnacha becomes Grenache, and nowhere is it more important than in the Southern Rhône Valley.

In fact, Grenache Noir is the most widely planted grape variety in the Southern Rhône.

Here Grenache is a major player in wines from Côtes du Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau and many of the Côtes du Rhône Villages.

Unlike many Spanish Garnachas that can showcase the grape on its own, Southern Rhône winemakers frequently use Grenache as the foundation of a blend.

You know the familiar trio:

Grenache – Syrah – Mourvèdre. (GSM)

Grenache brings the ripe fruit, warmth and generosity. Syrah can contribute darker fruit, spice and structure, while Mourvèdre brings additional structure and savory complexity.

Of course, Rhône blends can involve far more grapes than those three.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Grenache Gets Serious

You can't talk about Grenache in Southern France without talking about Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Grenache Noir is the dominant grape in the appellation, where the Mediterranean climate provides abundant sunshine while the famous Mistral wind helps keep conditions dry.

And then there are those soils.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is famous for its galets roulés, the large rounded stones you'll see covering some vineyards. The appellation also includes red clay, limestone, sand and sandstone soils.

Grenache grown here can produce powerful, structured and complex wines capable of aging beautifully.

This isn't just juicy Garnacha anymore.

This is Garnacha after it put on its fancy clothes.

Don't Forget Gigondas

Just northeast of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is another region where Grenache shines: Gigondas.

Grenache Noir is the principal red grape here, growing among soils that include clay, limestone, chalky marl and sand. The vineyards around the Dentelles de Montmirail include highly porous, free-draining terraces of stony red clay as well as distinctive limestone formations.

The resulting reds can show ripe red and black fruit, spice and a fuller, more structured personality. With age, some develop earthy and even truffle-like characteristics.

If your idea of Grenache is simply a light, fruity red, wines like Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape will quickly change your mind.

Garnacha Likes to Struggle

Here's one of the things to note about Garnacha: it doesn't need to be pampered.

In fact, it often performs beautifully in places where the vines have to struggle.

Hot climates? Check.

Drought? It can handle it.

Dry, rocky hillsides? Bring them on.

Poor soils? Even better.

The Southern Rhône's Grenache Noir is particularly suited to dry, poor soils, while Grenache Gris is noted for its ability to handle drought, strong winds and dry, rocky hillsides.

You'll find Garnacha growing in slate, limestone, clay, sand, gravel and rocky soils depending on the region.

Those difficult sites can also be home to wonderful old Garnacha vines. Old vines naturally produce less fruit, but that smaller crop can give us wines with wonderful concentration and complexity.

Sometimes struggling a little builds character—even in grapes.

What's in Your Glass?

Garnacha is generally known for its generous fruit, moderate tannins and potentially high alcohol, particularly when grown in warm climates. Grenache Noir naturally produces very fruity, round wines with weight and volume and has the potential to reach relatively high alcohol levels.

But don't think every bottle is going to be a big bruiser.

A youthful Spanish Garnacha can practically bounce out of the glass with strawberries, raspberries and cherries. Another bottle, particularly from old vines or a more serious appellation, might give you darker fruit, spice, herbs, earth and minerality.

Southern Rhône Grenache may be richer and more savory, especially when blended with Syrah, Mourvèdre and other traditional varieties.

It's one grape with a lot of personalities.

What Should You Eat With Garnacha?

This is where Garnacha becomes your friend.

Its combination of juicy fruit, spice and generally approachable tannins makes it incredibly versatile at the table.

Try it with:

• Grilled burgers
• Sausages
• Barbecue chicken
• Pork tenderloin
• Lamb
• Grilled or roasted vegetables
• Mushroom dishes
• Pizza
• Tomato-based pasta
• Paella
• Tapas
• Charcuterie
• Manchego and other aged cheeses

It also works beautifully with foods that bridge summer and fall.

Think There’s that point toward the end of summer when you can feel the season beginning to shift.

The days are still warm, but the evenings are cooler and mornings have a nip. You might still be sitting outside with dinner, but suddenly you’re reaching for a sweater. The tomatoes and peppers are still coming out of the garden, but you’re starting to think about roasted vegetables, stews and everything that comes with fall.

That’s exactly why I chose Garnacha as my Grape of the Month.

Garnacha still has that summer spunk, but there’s a hint of fall in it. It’s juicy, fruity and still likes to have some fun, yet it has enough spice, warmth and body to carry us into cooler evenings.

And perhaps best of all, Garnacha is incredibly food-friendly.

Garnacha or Grenache?

First, let's clear up the name.

Garnacha and Grenache are the same grape.

In Spain, where the grape originated—most likely in Aragón—you’ll see Garnacha on the label. Cross the border into France and it becomes Grenache.

Today, it is grown throughout the world, including Australia, California, Washington State, South Africa and other warm, dry wine regions. But for me, its most fascinating expressions are still found in Spain and Southern France. And reasonably priced, I might add.

The grape loves sunshine. It is vigorous, drought-resistant and particularly comfortable in the dry, poor soils and warm Mediterranean climates found in these regions. In the Southern Rhône, Grenache Noir is especially well suited to dry, poor soils and produces fruity, round wines with plenty of volume on the palate.

That ability to thrive where other plants might struggle is part of Garnacha's magic.

Garnacha in Spain

Spain is Garnacha's homeland, and you'll find it planted in several regions, particularly across northeastern and central Spain.

Aragón is especially important to the story of Garnacha. Look for wines from areas such as Campo de Borja, Calatayud and Cariñena, where warm days, old vines and challenging growing conditions can produce deeply flavored wines.

Then there is Priorat, where Garnacha—often alongside Cariñena—takes on a completely different personality.

Priorat's famous llicorella soils, made up largely of fractured slate, force the vines to work hard. The roots search through cracks for water and nutrients, and yields can be tiny. What ends up in the glass can be concentrated, mineral-driven and powerful, while still retaining Garnacha's beautiful fruit.

Depending on where it is grown and how it is made, Spanish Garnacha can range from fresh and juicy to seriously complex and age-worthy.

You'll often find flavors and aromas of:

• Strawberry
• Raspberry
• Cherry
• Red plum
• Dried herbs
• White and black pepper
• Licorice
• Warm baking spices

With older vines and more concentrated styles, you may find darker fruit, earth, dried herbs and savory notes.

That's what I love about Garnacha. It can be easygoing and fun without being simple.

Cross the Border and It Becomes Grenache

Head into France and Garnacha becomes Grenache, and nowhere is it more important than in the Southern Rhône Valley.

In fact, Grenache Noir is the most widely planted grape variety in the Southern Rhône.

Here Grenache is a major player in wines from Côtes du Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau and many of the Côtes du Rhône Villages.

Unlike many Spanish Garnachas that can showcase the grape on its own, Southern Rhône winemakers frequently use Grenache as the foundation of a blend.

You know the familiar trio:

Grenache – Syrah – Mourvèdre. (GSM)

Grenache brings the ripe fruit, warmth and generosity. Syrah can contribute darker fruit, spice and structure, while Mourvèdre brings additional structure and savory complexity.

Of course, Rhône blends can involve far more grapes than those three.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Grenache Gets Serious

You can't talk about Grenache in Southern France without talking about Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Grenache Noir is the dominant grape in the appellation, where the Mediterranean climate provides abundant sunshine while the famous Mistral wind helps keep conditions dry.

And then there are those soils.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is famous for its galets roulés, the large rounded stones you'll see covering some vineyards. The appellation also includes red clay, limestone, sand and sandstone soils.

Grenache grown here can produce powerful, structured and complex wines capable of aging beautifully.

This isn't just juicy Garnacha anymore.

This is Garnacha after it put on its fancy clothes.

Don't Forget Gigondas

Just northeast of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is another region where Grenache shines: Gigondas.

Grenache Noir is the principal red grape here, growing among soils that include clay, limestone, chalky marl and sand. The vineyards around the Dentelles de Montmirail include highly porous, free-draining terraces of stony red clay as well as distinctive limestone formations.

The resulting reds can show ripe red and black fruit, spice and a fuller, more structured personality. With age, some develop earthy and even truffle-like characteristics.

If your idea of Grenache is simply a light, fruity red, wines like Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape will quickly change your mind.

Garnacha Likes to Struggle

Here's one of the things to note about Garnacha: it doesn't need to be pampered.

In fact, it often performs beautifully in places where the vines have to struggle.

Hot climates? Check.

Drought? It can handle it.

Dry, rocky hillsides? Bring them on.

Poor soils? Even better.

The Southern Rhône's Grenache Noir is particularly suited to dry, poor soils, while Grenache Gris is noted for its ability to handle drought, strong winds and dry, rocky hillsides.

You'll find Garnacha growing in slate, limestone, clay, sand, gravel and rocky soils depending on the region.

Those difficult sites can also be home to wonderful old Garnacha vines. Old vines naturally produce less fruit, but that smaller crop can give us wines with wonderful concentration and complexity.

Sometimes struggling a little builds character—even in grapes.

What's in Your Glass?

Garnacha is generally known for its generous fruit, moderate tannins and potentially high alcohol, particularly when grown in warm climates. Grenache Noir naturally produces very fruity, round wines with weight and volume and has the potential to reach relatively high alcohol levels.

But don't think every bottle is going to be a big bruiser.

A youthful Spanish Garnacha can practically bounce out of the glass with strawberries, raspberries and cherries. Another bottle, particularly from old vines or a more serious appellation, might give you darker fruit, spice, herbs, earth and minerality.

Southern Rhône Grenache may be richer and more savory, especially when blended with Syrah, Mourvèdre and other traditional varieties.

It's one grape with a lot of personalities.

What Should You Eat With Garnacha?

This is where Garnacha becomes your friend.

Its combination of juicy fruit, spice and generally approachable tannins makes it incredibly versatile at the table.

Try it with:

• Grilled burgers
• Sausages
• Barbecue chicken
• Pork tenderloin
• Lamb
• Grilled or roasted vegetables
• Mushroom dishes
• Pizza
• Tomato-based pasta
• Paella
• Tapas
• Charcuterie
• Manchego and other aged cheeses

It also works beautifully with foods that bridge summer and fall.

Think grilled pork with roasted peppers, sausages with peppers and onions, mushroom pizza, grilled eggplant, roast chicken with herbs or a big platter of late-summer vegetables.

That is exactly where my head is right now as my garden winds down.

I'm not quite ready for heavy winter reds, but I'm beginning to move away from the crisp whites and rosés I've been reaching for during the hottest days of summer.

Garnacha sits right in the middle.

The Perfect Grape for the Changing Season

We're entering that wonderful in-between time. Summer hasn't completely packed its bags, but fall is knocking at the door.

Garnacha understands the assignment.

It's juicy enough for a warm afternoon. It's spicy and warming enough when the temperature drops after sunset. You can drink it with something coming off the grill today and pair it with roasted vegetables, mushrooms or pork as we head deeper into fall.

Summer spunk with a hint of fall.

That's Garnacha.

So this month, pick up a bottle—or better yet, pick up two.

Try a Garnacha from Spain and a Grenache-based wine from the Southern Rhône. Taste them side by side and see what happens when the same grape speaks with two different accents.