Gran Selezione - Chianti Classico's New Classification

There is a new classification in Chianti Classico and it’s called Gran Selezione. Honestly, during #Winestudio is the first time I heard about this classification and tasted the wines. So what is it and why is it the top classification out of the region.

The Gran Selezione is the classification above Riserva. It was approved by the European Commission in February 2014 with the 2010 vintage. There are some vintages out there as early as 2006 that say Gran Selezione because they were grandfathered in as long as they met the requirements. The Gran Selezione represents 4% of the Chianti Classico production.

Requirements:

• All production must come from the same zone
• All must be estate grown grapes
• Maximum yield is 3.35 tons per acre
• If a winery leases a vineyard and makes GS from that leased vineyard, it’s considered estate grown
• It must be 80% Sangiovese all estate grown
• Minimum alcohol level is 13%
• Must be aged for 30 months and 3 months in the bottle

During our #Winestudio program, our focus was on Ricasoli Wines. They are the oldest winery in Italy dating back to 1411. Although the Gran Selezione can be a blend they are moving to use more Sangiovese as well as producing 100% Sangiovese Gran Selezione. The estate vineyards selected for this classification can change from year to year, but there are many plots that are consistently part of the blend. Barone Francesco Ricasoli believes the Gran Selezione classification will benefit the entire group of Chianti Classico producers as this category shows how the appellation has been focusing on quality the past 15 - 20 years.

Ricasoli 1141 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione

This is Ricasoli’s flagship wine and just happens to fit into the Gran Selezione category. They have been making it since before the new classification was approved. We tasted two vintages the 2010 and 2015 and the two were had some similarities as well as differences. One of the items I noticed was that 2010 didn’t say Gran Selezione on it. The 2010 was made with Brolio in mind and that style of wine as it’s evolved throughout the years. It met the criteria for Gran Selezione and it’s the first vintage year of the classification. The 2015 Brolio recognizes the success of the more recent vineyard plantings and the blend is slightly different with 10% more Sangiovese. The aging potential for these wines are 15 - 20 years.

2010 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG - This is Ricasoli’s flagship wine and just happens to fit into the Gran Selezione category. The wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. A very rich and elegant wine brickish in color with red fruit, leather, tobacco and plum. The tannins are very well balanced and it finishes with a little hint of cigar and clove.

2015 Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG - This blend is 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot. The wine was a nice garnet in color. This wine was a little more fruit forward, but it is also younger than the 2010. Notes of red cherry, blackberry, plum, violet, cedar with a nice burst of black pepper spice on the finish.

Single Vineyard Gran Cru Gran Selezione

The single-vineyard Gran Selezione are single vineyard designate with the focus on 100% Sangiovese spotlighting the soil composition on where the grapes are planted. It is their Gran Cru wines. The grapes were hand harvest with sorting done in the vineyard then gravity fed into the winery. The wine was aged in 18 months in large barrels of which 30% were new oak and 70% second use. Then the wine spent 12 months in the bottle. To be clear, the wines had the same winemaker, same treatment and were produced in the same territory. The difference lies in the soils, altitudes and microclimates within the vineyard and each wine has its own personality.

2015 Colledila Chianati Classico DOCG Gran Selezione - The Colledila vineyard is on a geological formation called Monte Morello. It’s seven hectares and is located 390 meters above sea level with a southeastern exposure. The soil is calcareous clay which is rich in calcium carbonate and poor in organic matter. It’s a cooler soil that has more water retention. The grapes are hand-harvested and only the perfect clusters are chosen for this wine.

The wine is very complex, full-bodied and well balanced. Notes of cherry, tree bark and spice come from the glass. The palate has fine tannins with notes of red cherry, black licorice and black pepper on a long lingering finish. As the wine opens the licorice notes become more pronounced along with notes of plum, defined red fruits. The wine really needs to be decanted. As it opens it comes into its own.

2016 Roncicone Chianti Classico DOCG Gran Selezione - This vineyard at 10 hectares is located on a Marine Deposits geological formation and sits at 320 meters above sea level with a southeastern exposure. The vineyard is more calcareous with marine sediment and sand and has better drainage. The grapes are handpicked and sorted and only the perfect clusters go into the wine.

Notes of clove, tobacco, red licorice and earth, this was Jen’s favorite of the two wines. (I don’t like to play favorites) The wine was a little less complex and a tad lighter on the palate than the 2015. Flavors of red and black cherry, plum and red licorice with nice acidity. As the wine opens there is a burst of pepper on the finish.

All these wines were pretty amazing. I know I am lucky to be able to be involved in programs like this to bring to you. It really educated me on Chianti Classico and the wines and classifications of the region. Next time you are in the wine store looking for an Italian red, let me know what you pick up

Chianti Classico - What You Need To Know

I’m sure when you reach for that bottle of Chianti to go with your Italian meal you don’t question the origins. You know it’s from the Chianti region and that is good enough for your pairing. Do you know the difference between Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva? Did you know there is an actual recipe for Chianti Classico and the man who developed it? Stay with me, and we will touch on these areas so when you go reach for that bottle of Chianti Classico you will have a better understanding of its origins

Location

The Chianti region is a sub-region of Tuscany established in 1716 and lies between Siena and Florence. The key grape grown is Sangiovese, although there are other grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and some local indigenous varieties grown as well.

Chianti Classico Classification System

As in many wines, the key to understanding what you are purchasing and pouring is to understand the classification system. This includes aging requirement, blending requirement and at times where the grapes are grown. There is a new classification in Chianti called Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. I will get into more detail on that in another article. For now, to understand here is what you need to know.

Chianti Classico - Chianti Classico must be made with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese grapes that are cropped at 3.35 tons per acre. The minimum alcohol level is 12%. The wine must be aged for 1 year, not to be released until October the following year.

Chianti Classico Riserva - must be made with a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, maximum vineyard yield is 3.35 tons per acre and the minimum alcohol level is 12.5%. The wine must age for 24 months with a minimum of 3 months aged in the bottle before released.

Chianti Classico Gran Selezione - This is a fairly new classification. The wine must be made with 80% Sangiovese but they all must be estate grown with a minimum alcohol level of 13%. The wine must age for 30 months with a minimum of 3 months aged in the bottle.

The remaining 20% of the grapes that are blended into Chianti Classico can be Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Colorino and Canaiolo Nero.

Photo: Ricasoli.com

The Man Behind the Recipe

The Ricasoli family has been making wine Chianti Classico dating back to 1141. It is the oldest winery in Italy and one of the four oldest wineries in the world. The property is home to the Brolio Castle located in the town of Gaiole.

Baron Bettino Ricasoli was a politician and visionary wine entrepreneur. He pushed for a focus on Sangiovese in Chianti Classico instead of the Canaiolo grape and it was documented by 30 years of experimentation. He won and they then began using 70% Sangiovese. Today it has been modified to 80%.

The vineyards range from 220 to 500 meters in altitude with a Mediterranean climate.

Today Baron Francesco Ricasoli who has been the head of the winery since 1993 is just as scientifically in tune to winemaking and innovation as his predecessors. He is a major influence on the ongoing study of soil types and clonal research. He has mapped 19 different soils at Briolo. The 5 most important soil types are: Arenaria (Sandstone) found in the higher altitude. Scaglia Toscana which are compacted layers of clay, Alberese (limestone) that many vineyards are planted on. This is the area where some of their Cru wines (top wines) are planted. The Marine Deposit Soils are at the lower altitudes as are the Alluvial Terraces, altitudes up to 300 meters.

Ricasoli Chianti Classico

Ricasoli Chianti Classico 2016 - This is the flagship wine which is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. It was fermented in stainless steel with 14-16 days of skin contact. It was aged for 9 months in 2nd and 3rd-year barrels plus 3 to 6 months in the bottle before release.

Tasting Notes: Some dry herbs and earthy undertones, bright cherry, plum and hint of acidity. Very easy drinking. SRP $22

Ricasoli Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2016 - This is produced from a selection of estate-rown grapes that reflect all the soil characteristics of Brolio. The blend is 80% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks for with skin contact for 14 - 16 days. The wine was aged for 18 months in 1st and 2nd-year barrels then aged in the bottle for 6 months before release.

Tasting Notes: Very complex, dark and rich. Black cherry, plum, anise and cocoa notes escape from the glass. The palate with soft tannins, layered with dark red fruit, black cherry, anise, black licorice, leather and cardamon, SRP $30

Montefioralle Celebrating 50 Harvests and Going Strong

Celebrating 50 harvests is just as monumental as celebrating your 50th birthday or your 50th wedding anniversary.

Montefioralle is celebrating their 50th harvest this year. Located in the small medieval hamlet of Montefioralle that is located not to far from Greve in Chianti. The castle dates back to 931 when a German monk was passing through ended up staying and set up a fortified monastery. The castle changed hands many times before ending up in the ownership of the local parish. In 1964 Renato Sieni took over the running of the vineyards that belonged to the parish of Montefioralle. The first harvest was in 1968 and in the 1990’s Renato had the opportunity to purchase the vineyards. Today together with his son Fernando they have planted new vines and began producing Chianti Classico wines.

Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico is the name of the wine that contains at least 80% of Sangiovese grape. What is special about Montefioralle’s Sangiovese or Chianti Classico is the microclimate the vineyards sits in that gives these Sangiovese grape the unique character that sets them apart from the rest. The vineyards sits at southern foot of the hill and it is believed that the possibility of a glacier is the reason why there is up to 50% loam in certain spots around the hamlet. The soil is rich in limestone which pushes the vines to dig deep for water, which is a good thing.

The Wines of Montefioralle

I am going to begin with Montefioralle 2014 Vin Santo which is a blend of late harvest Trebbiano and Malvasia. This is a very special wine, a wine that takes 3 years to produce though 4 phases of production.

Phase 1 - Immediately after harvest the single bunches of grapes are hung up in aerated rooms where by January they will slowly become raisins. This allows to lose most of the water that had been filling the grapes and will increase the percentage of fruit-sugar.

Phase 2 - After more than three months, usually January, following a careful selection, the raisins are pressed. 

 Phase 3 The little amount of juice obtained will then be put in small barrels made out of cherry-wood (caratelli). They will be filled only up to 75%, and then sealed with cement. Therefore this will cause a slow fermentation in high pressure. Fermentation is a very difficult environment, in 3 years fermentation starts and stops several times. Only the strongest yeasts survive.

Phase 4 - The final result, after three years , is a sweet wine with a high alcohol content of approximately 16 degrees

The 2014 Vin Santo had raisiny aromas with hints of caramel. In the glass it’s a great sipping wine. At first the wine had some juicy red apple flavors that soon turned to prune and fig. This is a dessert style wine that I paired with Creme Brulee (my attempt of Creme Brulee) and it will also go well with blue cheese. The combo was like butter. The Vin Santo just melted right into the Creme Brulee and danced in your mouth and put a smile on my face. SRP $35

2015 Montefioralli Chianti Classico DOCG is made mostly from the Sangiovese grape with Canaiolo and Colorino added in small quantities. It is aged in oak for 12 months. Aromas of plum and red and black cherry leads to a palate of dark red fruit. SRP $19

2014 Montefioralli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG is selected from the best grapes from the oldest vines. After malolactic fermentation the wine is aged for 24 months in oak barrels. Nice aromas of dry herbs, thyme plum and red raspberry lead way to a complex palate with nice acidity and flavors off blackberry, cherry, plum red fruit and hints of sour cherry. SRP $30

The Sieni family shares their memories with you.

The Dog Ate My Tasting Notes

We've all heard the excuses "the dog ate my homework." Well the dog actually did eat the corner of my son's homework once.  I should have know that would lead to be a problem.

I had the tasting notes for the Cecchi wines I had tasted sitting on my desk with my camera on on top of it.  Summer (my dog) was in the hands of my husband who knows of her past. Summer must have been very mad at me for leaving for a few days.  When I returned on Saturday I sat at my desk to write up the tastings and my tasting notes were gone.  The only thing left were two of the recipe cards that came with the wine.

When I inquired, Paul told me not only did she eat the tasting notes, but she knocked down the camera onto the floor to get to the paper. My answer was, why did you let the dog in my office.  I guess she went in there when I went out.  Lame excuse, close the door to my office.

So I am retrieving these tasting notes from deep in my brain guided with the pictures of the wonderful Bolognese pairing.

First a little bit about Cecchi. Luigi Cecchi was a professional wine taster in Italy and understood the potential of making Italian wine.  In the early 1900's his son Cesare joined him and gave life to the first mass marketing of wine with the Cecchi label.

2012 Cecchi Chianti Classico is made with 90% Sangiovese grapes. It was fermented in stainless steel tanks for 7 days and aged for 11 months. Upon bottling,, it was aged another 2 months before being released.  The wine had a beautiful garnet color with aromas of berries. It had nice structure with flavors of cherry and a hint of anise.

2013 Cecchi Sangiovese is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for 15 days.  Aged in the tanks then released 2 months after bottling. Aromas of violets and a hint at spice filled the glass.  A bit on the fruity side with strawberry notes.

The moral of my "Dog ate my tasting notes" is make sure you keep your office door closed when you leave.  That way when you dog get pissed off at you because you have left her, she will hopefully find something else to destroy.