From South Australia to New York's Finger Lakes, Living Roots is proof that great wine and a great love story can go hand in hand.
Last year, while traveling through the Finger Lakes, I was on my way to Weis Vineyards when I passed Living Roots Wine & Co. I remember thinking, I need to stop there on my way back to Watkins Glen, where I was staying.
And I am so glad I did!
Not only did I discover some wonderful wines, but I also learned the story behind Living Roots. It's a story of love, adventure, family vineyards, and two people who brought their winemaking worlds together across two continents. (bring out the tissues)
Living Roots: A Love Story Between Australia and the Finger Lakes
Every winery has a story, but the one behind Living Roots is particularly special.
It begins with Sebastian (Seb) Hardy, who grew up surrounded by vineyards in South Australia. Winemaking was practically in his blood. Seb comes from a long line of Australian winemakers, with family roots in the industry stretching back generations.
Then there's Colleen, a Rochester, New York native who decided to take a leap of faith.
Colleen left her traditional 9-to-5 career behind to pursue her interest in wine. In 2014, she traveled halfway around the world to South Australia, where she took a cellar-hand position at Hardy's Tintara Winery for the vintage.
And that's where she met Seb.
What began as a shared passion for wine blossomed into a romance and eventually a business that would connect their two homes.
Rather than choosing between Australia and New York, they decided to embrace both.
And Living Roots Wine & Co. was born.
Two Wineries, Two Hemispheres, Two Harvests, One Couple
Seb and Colleen founded Living Roots in 2016
They make wine in both the Adelaide Hills of South Australia and the Finger Lakes of New York. Because the seasons are flipped between hemispheres, they get to do something most winemakers never will: work two harvests every year. (That’s a lot of stress and frequent flyer miles.) Today they spend about nine months in the Finger Lakes and three months in Australia.
Each region plays to its strengths. In the cool Finger Lakes, the focus is on rich whites and sparkling wines. In South Australia, it's vibrant, medium-bodied reds. Their first New York home was an urban winery and tasting room in Rochester, opened in 2017.
Today their Finger Lakes winery sits in Hammondsport, on Keuka Lake, which by the way has a killer view of Keuka Lake!
Living Roots 2023 Bone Dry Riesling
The 2023 Bone Dry Riesling was made using several techniques that contribute to its texture and personality.
Wild fermentation: Rather than relying solely on commercially selected yeast, the wine was fermented with naturally occurring yeast. This can contribute additional complexity and character.
Ten months on the lees: Lees are the spent yeast cells left behind after fermentation. Allowing wine to rest on its lees can add texture, richness, and a rounder mouthfeel.
Unfined and unfiltered: The wine wasn't subjected to the usual fining and filtration processes before bottling, an approach that can help preserve certain textural components.
A touch of neutral oak: Eight percent of the wine spent four months in neutral oak barrels. Because these barrels have already been used, they generally impart little noticeable oak flavor. Instead, they can contribute subtle textural differences.
Put all these techniques together, and you have a Riesling that offers a little more texture and softness than some of its bone-dry Finger Lakes counterparts.
On the nose: My first impression was a lovely whiff of lemon curd, followed by a subtle mineral character. There was something inviting about the citrus aroma, with a richness that went beyond freshly squeezed lemon.
On the palate: The wine was lively, with bright citrus notes and a touch of orchard fruit. I picked up a wet-stone character that added another dimension to the wine.
The mouthfeel was pleasant, with a little more roundness than I typically expect from a bone-dry Finger Lakes Riesling.
My thoughts: I enjoyed this wine, although I will admit that I would have liked a little more of that racy acidity I love in Riesling.
For me, it wasn't quite as lively as I had hoped.
I suspect the combination of extended lees aging and that small percentage of neutral oak helped soften the perception of acidity, giving the wine a rounder, more restrained feel. The oak doesn't necessarily reduce the actual acidity, but it can influence how we experience the wine.
And you know what? That's perfectly okay!
Not every Riesling needs to make your mouth pucker.
What Would I Pair With It?
With its citrus character, mineral notes, and slightly rounded mouthfeel, I would reach for this Riesling with seafood, especially seared scallops, grilled shrimp, or a delicate white fish with lemon.
I also think it would be lovely with roast chicken, a creamy goat cheese, or a simple pasta dish with lemon and herbs.
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