The $16 Hidden Gem in My Wine Cellar
Every once in a while, I pull a bottle from my wine cellar and wonder, "Why on earth didn't I buy more of this?"
That was exactly my reaction when I opened my last bottle of Acentor 2020 Maturana from Rioja, Spain.
This little gem had been quietly aging in my wine cellar since the summer of 2023. I paid a whopping $16 for it. Yes, $16! And after tasting it, all I could think was, I should have purchased a case!
What makes this bottle even more special is the grape itself. It's not your everyday Rioja made from Tempranillo or Garnacha. This wine is made from Maturana Tinta, a nearly forgotten grape with a fascinating history, a Bordeaux connection, and a remarkable comeback story.
And you know how much I love introducing you to grapes you may never have heard of! Honestly, I thought about saving this for the "Grape of the Month" but I was to excited to share it with you.
Meet Maturana Tinta: Rioja's Nearly Forgotten Grape
When most people think of red wine from Rioja, Tempranillo immediately comes to mind. But Rioja has a few surprises tucked away in its vineyards, and Maturana Tinta is one of them.
Maturana Tinta is considered one of Rioja's historic grape varieties. For generations, it was grown in the region, particularly around the village of Navarrete, before nearly disappearing.
DNA testing revealed that the grape known locally as Maturana Tinta de Navarrete is genetically identical to Castets, a rare historic red grape from Bordeaux, France.
So while Maturana Tinta has deep roots in Rioja's viticultural history, it isn't exclusive to Spain. Its French counterpart, Castets, has also been preserved and cultivated in limited quantities.
That makes this grape's story even more fascinating. Two different wine regions, two different names, and one shared grape variety!
What Makes Maturana Tinta Different?
Maturana Tinta produces small, compact clusters of tiny berries with shiny, blackish-blue skins.
Those little berries pack quite a punch.
The grape is particularly rich in anthocyanins, the natural pigments responsible for giving red wine its color. This helps explain why wines made from Maturana Tinta can display such deep, intense ruby and purple hues.
But color is only part of the story.
Maturana Tinta is also known for its naturally high acidity, pronounced tannins, and concentrated flavors. These characteristics give the wine structure, freshness, and the potential to develop beautifully with age.
Expect dark fruit flavors, often accompanied by herbal, earthy, spicy, and mineral characteristics.
It's a grape with personality.
From Nearly Extinct to Rediscovered
Like so many of Europe's historic grape varieties, Maturana Tinta suffered tremendously during the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century.
Phylloxera, a tiny insect that attacks grapevine roots, devastated vineyards throughout Europe. When growers began replanting, they often favored varieties that were more familiar, commercially reliable, and productive.
In Rioja, that meant grapes such as Tempranillo took center stage, while Maturana Tinta was largely left behind.
For decades, the variety teetered on the edge of extinction.
Fortunately, local researchers and viticulturists recognized the importance of preserving Rioja's genetic grape heritage. They tracked down surviving vines, studied the variety, and worked to bring it back into cultivation.
In 2007, Maturana Tinta was officially authorized for use in wines bearing the DOCa Rioja designation.
Today, it remains a relatively rare grape, but a handful of producers are giving it the attention it deserves.
Some bottle Maturana Tinta as a single-varietal wine, allowing its distinctive personality to shine. Others use small percentages in blends to contribute color, acidity, structure, and complexity.
It's a wonderful example of why preserving historic grape varieties matters. Imagine if this grape had disappeared completely. We would have lost a little piece of wine history, not to mention some delicious wine!
Acentor 2020 Maturana: A Rioja Worth Discovering
The Acentor 2020 Maturana is made by Issac Fernandez through Isaac Fernandez Seleccion, from estate-grown fruit cultivated in limestone and iron-rich soils.
Those vineyard conditions, combined with the grape's naturally concentrated berries, help create a wine with both depth and freshness.
Limestone-rich soils are often associated with wines that maintain vibrant acidity, while the iron-bearing components contribute to the vineyard's distinctive growing environment.
What I particularly enjoyed about this bottle was how well everything had come together after a few years in the cellar.
Tasting Notes: Dark Fruit, Spice, and Beautiful Balance
This wine was dark purple, think purple teeth when you are done.
The nose opened with inviting aromas of dark berries, leather, and spice.
On the palate, the wine delivered layers of ripe blackberry, black cherry, and dark plum, complemented by hints of vanilla, toasted oak, and warm baking spices.
Despite the grape's reputation for pronounced acidity and firm tannins, this wine had an elegant, beautifully integrated structure. The dark fruit was rich without feeling heavy, and the freshness kept everything lively.
The tannins had softened nicely, creating a smooth, harmonious mouthfeel.
The finish was complex and lingering, with dark fruit giving way to leather, subtle minerality, and a touch of toasty spice.
It was one of those wines that continued to reveal something new with each sip.
And for $16? Are you kidding me?
This is exactly why I always say that a great bottle of wine doesn't have to come with a hefty price tag.
What to Pair with Maturana Tinta
With its dark fruit, lively acidity, savory notes, and structured tannins, Maturana Tinta is a fantastic food wine.
Here are a few pairings I'd love to try:
Grilled ribeye or New York strip steak
Braised short ribs
Roasted lamb with rosemary and garlic
Wild mushroom risotto
Chorizo or Spanish-style pork
Aged Manchego cheese
The Beauty of Discovering Lesser-Known Grapes
One of the things I love most about wine is that there is always something new to discover.
We tend to reach for the grapes we know: Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Tempranillo. And there's absolutely nothing wrong with that.
But there are thousands of grape varieties around the world, each with its own story, personality, and sense of place.
Maturana Tinta is a perfect example.
So the next time you're shopping for wine, don't automatically reach for a familiar grape. Take a chance on something you've never heard of.
You might discover your next favorite wine.
And if you happen to spot a bottle of Maturana Tinta from Rioja, give it a try. I certainly hope to find another one!
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