June’s Grape of the Month: Rkatsiteli — The 8,000-Year-Old Wine Built for Summer

 

 

If your summer wine rotation has gotten a little predictable—same Sauvignon Blanc, same rosé, same chilled Chardonnay on repeat—I want to introduce you to the grape that is officially my June Grape of the Month: Rkatsiteli. Yes, that’s a mouthful. Don’t worry, the folks at Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery in the Finger Lakes call it "Rkat," and I think we should all adopt that. Once you have a glass on the dock, by the pool, or on a backyard chaise lounge, you’ll be hooked.

I sat down with Megan Frank, fourth-generation owner of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, on an episode of Winephabet Street and stopped by the winery and visited with her last May, and the more we talked, the more I realized this grape is the perfect summer pour—high acid, beautifully aromatic, and so versatile it can carry you from morning mimosa hour all the way to a curry-and-citronella sunset.

A grape with 8,000 years of receipts

Rkatsiteli is the oldest known grape variety in the world. Carbon-dated grape seeds were unearthed at the bottom of clay vessels called qvevri in the Republic of Georgia, the actual birthplace of wine. Researcher Patrick McGovern, sometimes called "the Indiana Jones of wine," traced winemaking back roughly 8,000 years to those qvevri, and the seeds inside were Rkatsiteli.

So how did it end up in upstate New York? Konstantin Frank, Megan’s great-grandfather, grew up in Odessa, Ukraine, where he managed a massive vineyard estate planted heavily to Rkatsiteli. He fled to New York during World War II, arrived speaking six languages and holding a PhD, washed dishes to survive, and then—at retirement age—started a wine revolution in the Finger Lakes by proving European vinifera grapes could thrive in cold climates. Locals called him "the crazy old doctor on the hill." He didn’t care. Four generations later, the winery is still going, and Rkatsiteli is one of their flagship pours.

Why Rkatsiteli is your summer wine

Here’s why I’m putting "Rkat" front and center for June:

•       High natural acidity. Rkatsiteli holds onto acid like nothing else—10 to 13 grams per liter at harvest. Translation: it is razor-fresh, mouth-watering, and wakes up the palate on a hot afternoon the way a cold splash of Keuka lake water does.

•       Beautifully aromatic. Think white pear, citrus zest, white peach, stone fruit, w tropical with a hint of tropical fruit to feel summery without being sweet.

•       Versatile across styles. Dr. Frank makes three: a traditional-method sparkling, the stainless-steel "OG," and an "Amber" that’s skin-fermented in amphora. There is a Rkatsiteli for every summer occasion.

•       A conversation starter. Walk into a backyard barbecue with a bottle of Rkatsiteli and you are instantly the most interesting guest at the party. (Pro tip: just say "Rkat." Everyone will laugh, then they’ll ask for a pour.)

The three Rkatsitelis you want this summer

Dr. Konstantin Frank Sparkling Rkatsiteli. Made in the traditional method (yes, the same way Champagne is made), extra brut, three years on the lees. Bright, crisp, and dressed for a pool deck. This is your "the boat is loaded, let’s go" wine.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli "OG." Stainless-steel fermented, fresh, vibrant, and—fun fact—the number-one selling wine out of their tasting room three years running. Pour this for backyard barbecue night, grilled shrimp, or a Tuesday on the patio, just because.

Dr. Konstantin Frank "Amber" Rkatsiteli. A gateway orange wine. The thick skins on Rkatsiteli mean it can handle two-plus weeks on skins, then time in amphora, without becoming aggressively tannic. Think gold-amber color, a floral nose, a gentle texture, and a food-friendly grip. The summer dinner party wine.

Summer pairings I’m loving

•       Poolside snacks: salty marinated olives, Marcona almonds, citrus-y ceviche, watermelon-feta skewers.

•       Boat day cooler: the sparkling, full stop. It’s lower alcohol than rosé, and the acid keeps you fresh in the heat.

•       Backyard grill night: the OG with grilled shrimp tacos, lemongrass chicken skewers, or a classic Pad Thai (Megan and I both went there—it’s a stellar match).

•       Date night al fresco: the Amber with grilled stone fruit and burrata, smoked trout, or a roast chicken with herbs.

•       Curry night on the deck: any of the three. Rkatsiteli loves Thai, Indian, Lebanese, and anything with exotic spice.

Where to find it

Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery ships to most U.S. states and is distributed in 40 states. Visit drfrankwines.com to order or to plan a trip to the Finger Lakes. They’re on Keuka Lake (Y-shaped, "canoe landing" or “lake with an elbow” in the Iroquois language—and yes, it’s one of the most beautiful of the eleven Finger Lakes, pristine and tranquil).

Watch the full episode

Want the whole story—Konstantin Frank’s incredible journey, the qvevri vs. amphora deep dive, the tasting through all three wines? Watch the Winephabet Street episode here: https://youtu.be/g8jQFcWVS-k?si=C7SgXQTIRmXegEYZ

And if you pour a bottle of "Rkat" this June, tag me @hvwinegoddess. I want to see your boat days, your pool floats, your sunset patios. Cheers to the oldest grape in the world finally getting its summer moment.